Inlay Project part 2 clean up and polish prep work for filming.

have used 2 120grit sanding discs so far to get it down to a nearly flat state as my workbench is not a level as i thought it was. So the E has not filled in as i would like.

I will use a 600, 800 and 1500 grit discs before the video starts as till i get a vice cannot show this on my workbench.

time to sand some more.
orbital sanding done now for a quick clean

ready for 2500 and some micro-abrasive to take the scratches out and then a final polish after.

micro abrasive and polish 2500grit
ready to film the cleanup then polish

will be filming it tomorrow. as have an ill little boy tonight so think its going to be a long night.

More video content incoming with sound and multiple cameras if all works well.

Have had some technical difficulties with cameras and mic but think i have solved some of these issues hopefully by end of tonight i can film part two of the resin infill project so if all works will do this tomorrow.

very happy with the first attempt i have whizzed down the excess resin with my orbital sander and some 120grit sandpaper. Really need a sanding booth dust out brake think next time will do it outside.

some pitting from my bench not being level. now to make it shine.

Good News seems to all be working now just got to do some re-running of USB cables to get rid of the issues with running more than 2 HD cams on one USB port. Will test out the gaming headset for mic audio.

touch wood will all be good so i can film the final finishing of the coaster.

Laser engraved Costers with Resin infill Part 1

Right, this has been a long time coming but i have finally got around to doing a video its not perfect as i need to 1 work on my video editing skills its a new bit of software i am using. 2 work on my narration skills as i think i can do better. i know i am probably being a little hard on my self but such is me.

Anyhow, I hope you enjoy the video part 2 should be out in the not so near future maybe even later see how time goes as off playing airsoft in the morning so got to charge up my hpa tanks so might not get time to film me sanding down the resin.

Video incoming and new year new projects.

New video series i will be producing a video to go with all my future projects.

As going live has been not happening due to life and work commitments i will be producing videos of all my projects and putting them on youtube as and when i do them this will be the not so live from the mancave series.

I will be starting the ball rolling with a video about laser engraving bamboo coasters and then infiling them with resin.

Part 1 should be released tonight. as in the cold weather the resin hasn’t set as quickly as it should hoping tonight it’s less sticky so i can fill me sanding and polishing it. then can put together part 2 and get that out as well.

I am back in the cave time for some fun with UV resin.

Well 2 weeks off meant to feel rested but now more tired than ever the joys of life. Never mind time to play with my Christmas gifts as requested crafting supplies.

UV resin and some Epoxy Resin, as i travelled back alone i ventured down to the man cave last night for some testing.

so for my first test, i decided to try UV resin. on a silicon mould and infill on a bamboo coster that i had laser engraved. So i fired up lightburn imported a welsh dragon logo as the brother in law wants a set of costers. i set the parameters to 350mms and 70%-65% power with 6 passes. I will modify this in the future as i want it to engrave deeper in fewer passes. i then pored around 10ml of resin into a cup and added 6 drops of resin colour red to give a nice red resin using the stir stick i coated the engraving. then hardened using UV light. Now i had not removed the masking tape which was a mistake as when i peeled it took all the resin out of the engraving with the tape so started again with no tape didn’t now have enough to fill to level but get the overall effect was still stickie to the touch.

if it been the first attempt probably would have been perfect. just squeezed all i could out of the mix pot.

will sand it later and see what happens. then will repeat with Epoxy resin on the opposite side of the coster.

UV Resin test infill on bamboo after sanding. gives a nice infill even though i didn’t have enough resin.

The viscosity of the UV resin is quite thick and does not flow very well was going to use a syringe to apply resin but wouldn’t suck well. see how epoxy does. next up i half-filled a silicon mould with resin applied some dry flowers and then filled the mould with resin i then cured using UV light apparently need 30 mins only did a few mins so will need to try this again as very sticky after cure.

so time permitting will do some experimenting tonight as can see this being cool for some upcoming projects i want to do.

Fun with different designs of wall-mounted spoolers

have since moving my Prusa mk3s to its new home on some racking been having issues finding a good wall mount spooler for it. so have been testing some from Thingiverse and that will fit into my set up. There might be more if none perform right.

Wall-mounted Spool holders tested.

Wall-mounted drybox by Ondřej Stříteský

This is a good 36hr print a really nice design

16hr print start
16hrs later.
rods and screws all installed as well as plastic membrane

The buidl:

Now as i have some 8mm tubing and all the bits have arrived from aliexpress time to build the box and see how she performs.

the print time is 36 hrs per box one failure as my new filament sensor was not turned on doh. hence the 2 tone box. still dialling in the printer.

funny looking humidity gauge thanks aliexpress.

Oh, Just opened up my humidity monitors from aliexpress turned out to be temp gauges so have ordered 5 more from bangood hope these ones are right but for time being they are going to be temp ones till bangood deliver.

the build come in 2 x 16 hr prints for each side of the shell. you are going to need 4 bearings and 2 x 100mm aluminium 8mm tubes 1 x M3 x 5mm. 2 x M3 x 10mm. and 2 x M3 x 30mm. and a panel mounts humidity meter bag plastic from a ziplock bag and some silica crystals to dry out the box.

the 8mm tube is a nice tight fit so i got some sandpaper and smoothed each end to allow bearings to fit better. then pushed them into pockets in the base of the dry box I then fitted the lid and added the 2 x M3 x 30mm bolts to the hinges and screwed them in. the M3 x 5mm holds on the lid catch i had to ream the channel that the plastic nub fits into slightly to get a nice tight fit. i also added another m3 x 5 mm to the lid to help it lockdown this was not mentioned in the guide but works well you then use a ziplock bag to cut out a rectangle window for the filament to go through this is then bolted down using 2 x M3 x 10mm bolts. as i have bags of silica gel i have added 2 to the box.

I then positioned the box to were I wanted to mount it I then use 4 self-tapping wood screws to fit it to my wall behind my printer.

Time to test.

very stiff on pulling out filament going to do some more testing later it’s not working right might be the cheap bearings from china. will play some more with this but taking up wall space. so going to remove it and test next design.


my issues might be the cheap bearings i used. so will revisit this design shortly as like the idea of having my filament stored during our winters.

Next, i tried this nice looking spooler

Simple Wall Mounted Spool Holder by 3dprintaddict

This was a 9hr 30 min print and works great on standard spools but not on Prusa spools are a little wider than smaller 1kg rolls.

The build.

take it off the print bed take 2 self-tapping screws and screw to the wall ready to go.


standard 1 kg roll of filament.

Just to small for my Prusa filament spools. will use it on another printer in the future.

Prusa 1kg roll of filament doesn’t fit.

Filament Spool Wall Mount by dermatin

As this one has been designed for Prusa printers i am hoping this will work for my set up its a clever system going to take 3 print runs to build have finished printing the base around 6hrs to print and am currently running the legs that a further 9+hrs then i will do the spoolers 9+hrs. you are going to need some parts for this build luckily i have all the parts from the days of printing fidget spinners. 8mm threaded rod from previous projects.

Legs are currently on the printer did the base earlier.

Parts list.

  • 160mm M8 Threaded rod.
  • 4 x 608 bearings.
  • 2 x M8 nuts

The Build.

all built up ready to mount.

In my case, i had to cut down a 1m bar threaded with my junior hacksaw. then ran the first nut to end of the bar. insert the 2 legs into the base ad 608 barings to each end of the spoolers. thread the bar through the bearings the legs and add the second nut tighten till not to much play one the spoolers.

attached mine to the wall with 3 self tappers and then covered with the hex caps.

fits the space perfectly


This is the one for me as holds 2 full-size Prusa filament spools and easy to swap in and out. will be testing this over the next few weeks. as I am installing a heater in the next few days i will not need to have a covered spool.

Right finally go this out after a few months of issues and printer problems i can see the light.

Some downtime

Sorry for no posts in a few weeks been a little tied up with work and personal life in the run-up to Christmas that and the cave is getting cold. i will be installing heater shortly again. i will try to finish off project Prusa control panel and spooler test before i disappear off to wales for a 2-week break and some well deserved RnR. will be back in the new year. Wishing all my followers a Happy Christmas and Merry new year.

Will try finishing off the 2 outstanding projects that i have been working on just not as much as i would like.

all the best


Been travelling with work.

right got some fun stuff coming up will be posting over the next few days just been working on my raspberry control panel for the mk3s just been drawing up plans for the GPIO pins as will be doing an integrated system this is all dependent on it all working but looking good from my tests.

The layout of GPIO pins on my raspberry pi 3 subject to change.

I have fitted a new tip to my soldering rig hoping its a better for doing reverse soldering on pins as from above you can see quite a few cables to deal that will be hidden by cable management.

have also been 3D printing a few test spoolers that are wall-mounted got one more to print before i post my findings. but will be doing the pi integration project first as this has now dragged on over a few blog posts. lots of highs and lows.

i also need some heat in the man cave as winter is definitely among us as temperatures are dropping into single digits.

I also managed to pick up a 300bar compressor for filling HPA bottles and a scuba tank will cover that shortly as going to be trying some modifications on that if my initial findings are ok.

hoping to get some work done tomorrow.

Plan B upscaling my idea octopi bigger screen build

Ok sorry for delays been a labour of love as have had issues the setup and getting wiring working right. but here we go. for time being i am going to simplify this post as serial links don’t seem to be working right will have a revisit to see what’s going on. might rework the wiring loom i made to see if that solves the issue. so running on USB

and even then last night had issues with that was trapped wiring, in the end, i have also ordered a 90degree USB cable to give some wire relief.

New USB cable seems to have fixed all issues with the printer sending kill cmd.

After having issues with my 3.5 TFT screen I now think this might be down to OctoPI-TFT not being a fully working build as i have rebuilt on my 3.5″ screen and 7″ to limited success. so i have decided that i have a 7″ touch screen and enclosure kicking around the man cave so i am going to install TouchUI on another pi yes got a few of kicking around will be directly linking via USB as serial links playing up. will also be installing power management with the plugin to turn my Original Prusa i3 Mk3s on and off independently to screen. also will be adding a led lighting ring around my web camera. this will be controlled by my octopi server using GPIO pins.

So what are you going to need to attempt this

7″ touch screen and enclosure.
Raspberry PI 3
  • 1 x Raspberry pi 3
  • 1 x Micro SD card 64gb overkill but smallest SD cardi have bar one in current set up.
  • 1 x Offical Raspberry Pi 7″ touch screen and enclosure.
  • 5v Arduino compatible relays. in my case 2 channel relay.
  • some duplex sockets and pins numbers to be confirmed.
  • crimping tool.
  • wire strippers.
  • wire, in this case, using a 6 core cable and a few single wires for lighting and any other additions as i build this project.
  • octoprint software available here.

Let’s get started First of all head over to Octoprints web site and download the 600+meg image start off by downloading the latest image.

you will need to unzip the image an image writer to burn it. I use etcher as it’s free and quick, select your image then select sd card as the target then hit start. a window pops up say yes to off it goes. will take around 15 mins to write and verify the sd card.

Select image from where you unzipped it.
Press start to write to the sd card say yes to the windows scurity alert.
off it goes time its verified will be 10 to 15 mins.

Now install the memory card into the pi and insert into the enclosure.

Then the power unit will reboot 2 times whilst it configures bits will be left with a screen showing the system ip and telling you to set up pi via the web browser.

Now time to install some bits in the background so we can tun this into touch screen printer controller.

You are now going to have to get an ssh client. i use Bitvise SSH Client as again freeware and very useful tool. so in my case i login to

you will then be asked for the default password of the pi which is raspberry. first things i tend to do is rename the host and change the default password. one to secure the pi and 2 to make it identifiable on the network.

type the following sudo raspi-config hit return this will then bring up the config menu. will get some legal bits about privacy and then be asked for the password again raspberry.

option 1 to change password for root
enter new password 2 times

You will then be greeted with the following screen

password changed you’re now secure.
select option 2 the option N1 Hostname then enter to rename.
then hit ok

Now go to finish you will be asked to reboot say yes. the system will reboot and you will need to open a new terminal window.

Bitwise will let you know when its back lives in my case can see it across the room. you will be asked for the new password when logged in click the new terminal window button will show your new hostname.

Now time to configure OctoPI with Touch UI Plug-in.

go to localhost.octopi or IP address that is displayed on your screen on boot up

First, of time, you go to the octopi web interface will be greeted with a wizard screen.

Image result for octopi setup wizard
  1. Start Screen
  2. Access control you will need to make up a username and password. then scroll down to enable login.
  3. Online Connectivity Check I enable this
  4. Plugin Blacklist I enable this.
  5. CuraEngine (<= 15.04. I skip this as all my files are pre-sliced.
  6. Default Printer Profile. Name your printer and profile also set up bed sizes in the tabs in the case of the Prusa mk3s it 250 x 210 x 210.

Now to do a quick plugin test run with my Prusa machine.

insert the basic screen.

Right now we have proof of concept. time to get on with making some connectors up and wiring to link to my Prusa using Rambo serial port. So as my other posts have found out the Prusa serial port does not have the amount of power to power a pi3 without the system having external power.

have clipped the red and black wire off as not using power from Prusa printer. going to make a 2×2 pin duplex female connector with blue and white wire and one with yellow and green. these will insert on to the following GPIO pins. 08 = white 10 = blue 15= green 16 = yellow this will give serial connection via Rambo board.

Image result for gpio pinout for raspberry pi 3
have included this GPIO pinout guide off website to aid with mods.

time to test again to make sure all connect correctly. success at last!!

Now to add power management and lights for the camera.

Now there are lots of ways this can be done using wifi plugs or relays in our case as want to make this a fun project going to use some 5v relays i was going to use some individual relays to make this project work but i have decided that i will use a 2 channel relay PCB that i will house in a housing as don’t want any wires sticking out.

Let’s make a start.

Taking note of the GPIO pins your going to use with this project in our case we will be using 2 x 5v relays so will use GPIO pins 04 for 5v+and 06 for ground.

IN pins will be any GPIO pins free so in this case, going to use pin 38 and 40 so GPIO20,21 as the triggers. for each relay, as will only use 2 to start might downgrade the relay at a later date.

Found this predesigned solution for 2 relays so will give it a go on Thingiverse

Link for the design can be found here.

i then jumped on PrusaSlicer and added the stl files. sliced them ready for printing.

not quite a perfect print but will do for the relay box.

Now have printed the relay holders will start on wiring side first one will be using 12vdc for light ring low voltage the other relay will be running mains voltage so do not attempt his if you are not comfortable with mains voltage. this is for UK spec wiring colour codes will change and if you’re in the states will not have an earth wire.

Let’s start with the dangerous element well not really that dangerous just be careful when messing with mains cables.

I tested it on my 4 channel relay to test the theory with GPIO pins switching without any power circuits connected to make sure it all works before adding mains voltage. my 2-way dual relay should be with me tomorrow. should take out shares in amazon as my prime account is much used.

!!!DO NOT HAVE LIVE WIRES EXPOSED WHEN PLUGGING INTO THE MAINS!!! makes sure all wiring is not exposed for anyone to touch i my set up i have mounted housing to back wall of the man cave keeps everything out general reach I also used terminated connectors with plastic sheathing to keep everything safe as a mains voltage shock is not fun. I have worked with high voltage for a few years and have been shocked several times the joys of playing with arcade machines and other industrial equipment. this is a disclaimer only attempt this if you feel confident with 240v wiring.

Relay 1

As i have a million and one kettle leads kicking around take a spare one and strip the outer sheath from it without cutting inner cores. i have a special wire cutter to do this and some wire cutters.

outer insulation stripped off i used coaxial cutter
wires cut then stripped .
added crimp pins i am redoing these in smaller pin size. as the yellows are too big squished them as a quick fix as testing.
240v end wired and strapped down.

You will be left with the 3 inner cores. cut the brown wire and strip around 5mm off each end. these wires i use pin crimpers as seals wire and makes it neat. the two wires will go into the high-end voltage of the relay so one will be on com or common pin and the other one will be put in normally closed or NC pin.

Relay 2

This will go via a mains powered 12v PSU i have wired this into the mains and taken some red and black-led wiring cable i have cut the red live wire and stripped 5mm each side and placed pin connectors on each end. placed into Com and NC connection terminals the same as above.

Low Voltage side of the relay to Raspberry Pi 3

on the other end of the relay, on the low voltage end, you have 3 pins IN, GND and VCC IN= GPIO pin GND = Ground and VCC= voltage input. GND and VCC will share voltage for the 4 relays. so will wire IN1 as the mains power switch and IN2 will control 12v lighting ring. leaving IN3,4 free for additional bits for the enclosure. so will make up 2 female pin duplex connectors one with 5v and ground. and the other 2 pin connectors will control lighting and power relay inputs.

low voltage wire will change with 4 pins instead of the current 6 pin

now the wiring is complete time to install some plugins.

ready for 12v PSU and mains voltage just going to test relays before install 2 relay PCB

all boxed up new 2 channel 5v relay ready to wall mount just going to make appropriate length cables.

tonight’s effort as most don’t realise this stuff takes time and has taken me a week to get all the bits together. tonight rewire operational and case installation. also testing plugins and doing an 8hr print. wish me luck.

Wiring swapped over to 2 channel relay and installed in housing.
all wired up ready fir 7hr test.

then armed with a hot glue gun i have glued my led ring to my cheap C922 Logitech webcam. some crimps and cable ties all attached i found an old hard drive power supply 12v that has 5×5 2.1mm power plug. to the parts to grab a female of the plug that i have so i can unplug it easily. The light is on now to install some plugins to control it.

Right ready to test just testing light as till i have a case for the relay i don’t want to risk mains voltage

i am currently testing out different plugins but work well.

Lights off

Lights switched off in my dark cave.

Light on all controlled by a plugin.

print for enclosure is done just need to pull it off the bed and fit the 2 channel relay to the box.

Ocoto-pi Plug-ins

going to run this through the enclosure plug-in so i will be able to power on and off the printer and USB camera light.

let’s get started

Touch UI plugin.

Go to the plugin management scroll down to get more and then search for touch UI after it’s installed you will be greeted with a request to reboot. do so

This screen will appear after reboot

when the server reboots you will be greeted with the new interface on the web log in don’t panic can switch this off look for the 3 bars on top of each other to the right of the screen. Click on it and sub-menu will be displayed click on TouchUI settings

click TouchUI Settings.
Click Toggle TouchUI to disable it on the web page.

The screen should go back to normal now.

Next step is done via remote terminal screen to install the front end for the 7″ screen.

Login to pi via ssh and do the following. Type the following to get the installer script.

git clone ~/TouchUI-autostart/

Now to install it.

sudo ~/TouchUI-autostart/helpers/install

Time for a reboot. sudo reboot now.

TouchUI should now display on your small screen were as a web login will be the same. you can customise it via the plugin under the web interface i made mine orange with black background.

Now to add functional add-ons to the system. will be installing a posting my findings in another post as this has been a week of tinkering but now happy with the output.

around 4 hrs till this finishes then will be adding add-ons.

nearly 4 hrs into wall mount spool holder. looks great.

Will be adding the following over the next few days and hard wiring the build.

Simple Emergency Stop

just what is says it i adds a E-stop to your menu bar as things do go wrong i usually sit watching the first layer or two print before going about my day and check in every so often.

Heater Timeout

this plugin saves your ass if you have forgotten to turn off printer hotend will allow# you to add a time out on hot end being idle.


The daddy of time lapse captures with this powerfull plugin can make prints appear from nowhere. took a bit of reading to get this working right but worth the hard graft to get it working. mind you there is a pre-compiled version for the mk3 so might just try that.


This is great custom themes discord being my favourite as i do not like white backgrounds.

PSU Control

this nifty little plugin will allow automatically shutdown of the printer after the print has finished also allows you to remotely turn on and off the printer.


this will allow for all sorts of inputs and outputs i will be using it to switch on and off camera LEDs and maybe more in the future as might add temperature sensors in the future.


this plugin pauses the print if there any errors from Prusa printer sensors a must for a Prusa user.


Filament Manager for OctoPrint yet to try this but seams promising for knowing how much is left on a spool will document this as i install. it.

This OctoPrint plugin helps to manage your filament spools.

  • Replacing filament volume with weight in sidebar
  • Software odometer to measure used filament
  • Warn if print exceeds remaining filament on spool
  • Assign temperature offset to spools
  • Automatically pause print if filament runs out
  • Import & export of spool inventory


this allows me to price up my prints even if they are for my us as good to see how much i am spending.


As the wife has brought me a new iwatch for birthday i will be using this addon to see how my prints are doing via the iwatch.


allows all captured time-lapse videos to be uploaded to my dropbox to stop any issues with my sd card filling up.

Prusa serial connection wiring

Sorry for lack of posts been away working at our holiday rental getting it ready for its firsts guests so been cutting signs for the doors and making welcome baskets and doing all the other fun jobs hanging mirrors pictures etc. so lack of sleep and having an ill baby boy as well. I am very tired

Oh, and my soldering idea didn’t work so it’s back to using brake out headers tonight. wish me luck as want to put this project to bed. (It did work had 2 wires the wrong way around)

my light reading.

Ok, I have figured out my issue got 2 of the pins the wrong way around somewhere pin 4 and 6 were reversed not sure how that happened so might go back to the solder idea as it works now. I am however getting a low power warning on the pi and have some calibration issues with the screen.

Finally working off wires alone.

the calibration issue i think i know the answer to there is a line of code i need to move out of the x11 folder that might be causing my issues. will try that tonight and see if it fixes this problem.

So i missed the following line of code after running this command and reboot screen fingers crossed it will now work again going to test this later as plugged pi in wrong again last night as was tired.

sudo mv /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/40-libinput.conf ~/

Think the screen might have issues going to do a fresh install of the script as now nothing works on the touch screen.

going to run off the stand-alone power supply as the voltage is too low to run a pi3 so have ordered a micro USB brake out cable so i can solder to 2 pins on the pi to power the unit this will allow me to shut down the printer on a wifi plug.

test run before i hardwire it.

Octo pi active and working just got to adjust web camera to get better image will then configure octolaps for some great time-lapse action. have recycled camera mount from my CR-10 as simple to fit.

just testing a quick print. on it to make sure it’s all working before i do a test fit of the control panel
2 test prints later. time to address the limited power.

I will cover the modification i will do to the link wire of the pi in a later post happy now the mk3s actually turns on and powers up.

then it stopped working yay back to USB method for the moment. till have thave some time to look into a fix.

Update think it is the cable as next post shows i think.