Making Stuff – JOSH'S MANCAVE LIVE

24/09/202229/09/2022

How to Modify your GameCube to the Maximum

As i have just purchased a second hand GameCube. I have decided i am going to modify it to the maximum the using the latest mods form 2022 for my 2001 machine

Picoboot modification

So first up I have decided to look modifying one using the Raspberry pico method. There are some options to softmod but they are more costly as can only get the modified memory cards or action replay discs from the states. there are other methods but the cost of these are well over £170 i wont be doing this the methods i have chosen is £14 for a complete Raspberry Pico wires thermal pads memory card and heat sync. I haven’t accounted for solder and flux as i have them in abundance the SD2SP2 PRO adapters all from aliexpress. £3,99

So why would you want to do this well there are several reasons.

To preserve your game collection by being able to back them up
Allow you to play homebrew.
Allow you to play games from other regions.
allow you to run DVD-R discs (if you pot tune)

So as I was away relaxing in Florida I was searching eBay for cheap game cubes i brought 2 one that was modified with Picoboot and one standard box.

why 2 well sniped them both by mistake so will be making them the same and then shifting one back on eBay as need to rase founds for a fiber laser. please donate if you like my posts.

What you will need to teardown you GC

you will need some special tools to open up a Nintendo product. In this case, you will need special 4.8 mm tool available of amazon

to open up the case you need to remove these 4 security screws from here onwards they are cross-head screws. see the image below.

you can now separate the shell.

Next up will need to remove the fan mechanism with 2 screws and unplug the power cable. as you can see mine is very dirty so out with airgun to blow the dust away. these are second hand boxes after all all built around the 2000s

you will now need to remove the optical drive board from the base board this is done by removing the following screws. there is around 15 of them all the same length so as long as they all go back afterwards wont be a issue. have pictured below locations.

Put the drive mechanism to one side and time to install the picoboot mod

For the pico boot method, you will need the following.

Raspberry pi pico
23 AWG wiring red black blue purple and orange approx 15 cm long lengths of each
Flux
Solder
Soldering iron
Thermal pads for chips
3D printed bracket
Heat shrink

i brought this kit of ali express for a grand total of £14 with all the parts

Lets start to install the mod so back to the main board.

To do this mod you will need to remove the 6 screws holding the heat sync in place then rock the heat sync carefully as not to damage the board.

if the heat sync is not moving heat the machine up for 15 mins then will come easily with out damaging DA14 which is common if your not delicate with this.

you will now need to solider the wires to the correct place on the lower board. once this is done you will need to route them to the side of the GameCube. see below instructions my board is DOL-001 built in 2001

going to start with black jumping over the 2 pin headers. Next will be the pink and the red wires, To Finish off will do the blue and the orange wires jobs done. Now it add heat shrink and route them through the board now this is done will add some Kapton tape to help protect the wires before re installing the heat sync. montage below

Now to flash the pico you can download the latest firmware here and how to install instructions as if you have dol-101 is different.

Lets get started on flashing plug usb in to pc and then Hold down white button connect via usb drive will mount on pc can let go of white button now. next drag latest version of the firmware picoboot.uf2 over to the folder drive will eject green light will come on your done as simple as that. now disconnect the pico and solder the corresponding pins. make sure you don’t have too much or too little wire

Me being a perfectionist i found this bracket by zedlabz to install the Pico on my machine. as 2 mm 2 screws and bottom bolts to machine for a nice clean install

so over to prusa slicer to make it going to take a wapping12 mins To produce

time to reassemble the machine and make sure it boots.

Format your SD card to FAT32 or exFAT. Download the latest Swiss release from here and grab swiss_rXXXX.dol file, rename it to ipl.dol and copy to the root of your SD card. it works nice and simple.

SD2SP2 & SD2SP2 PRO 2022 AND SD MEMORY CARDS

There are 3 current options on market for the GC depending on method of modifying will be how you if you were using a mod chip you would need dvd media to boot in to swiss. In the case of the picoboot you wont need the optical drive unless your booting games off it.

So will need a front end to boot in were as modchip will still mainly read from the drive and then boot off the sd.

so your my options are the followng

SD2SP2 micro sd card reader that hides behind behid the expattion port on the front of the machine willhave to remove port cover to access it easily.

SD2SP2 PRO this is simulare but had an exstention board so it can be accessed from the side of the game cube (this is the one i am going to use.)

Memory card SD reader in standard and Micro sd verisons

all pictured below.

Formatting SD Card (Important)

it has to be fat32 if you want some of the apps to work especialy home brew cheats saves etc. it gave me a headache for a few days till i did some testing. i am using a 256GB micro SD in the SD2SP2 card port the system will support bigger and when the prices drop will put a 1tb drive in there. I know were as the front loading memory cards can be a bit different.

Card structure

Download the latest version swiss and then copy the .dol in to root folder you will need to renamed the to swiss_rXXX.dol to IPL.dol this will allow the system to boot in to swiss you can also launch other systems by naming them a, b, y and x .dol not tried this yet good for the homebrewer.

Using homebrew software

This is primarily why I built this machine as have a love for old school gaming

So have added the following SNES, NES, N64, Sega master system and Mega drive, PC Engine and colecovision. there some others like PSX and scummMV that i will try come back to later

Key points:

You will need to install emulator.dol for each system in the correct Name folders

with in each folder you will need a roms folder and saves folder this will then

the SD Card needs to be formatted fat32

So far i have working the following systems.

N64
Sega master system
Sega mega drive
SNES
NES
Gameboy and Gameboy colour
Gameboy advance
PC Engine

Backing up your games

This is done with very easily using CleanRip insert disc in drive turn GameCube launch app and follow on screen instructions about 30 mins later you will have a full back up on the sd card of your disc ready to launch through swiss.

its not illegal o own back ups of your own games. its is how ever illegal to download them off the internet. unless the are now public domain for historical reasons. like a lot of old games are.

Pot tuning for burnt media

This step will need to be done for all methods methods if your going to use burnt media as most GameCube wont allow you to use DVD-r or +.

to do this you will need need a multimeter set to 2k ohms.

Deepening on model will depend on what figures you should see GC is on. DOL-001 units are usually set somewhere between 450 – 600Ω while DOL-101 units will be a bit lower at around 150 – 250Ω so if the disc is not reading try raising it a bit. and try media again till it boots correctly. as show below.

fist you will need to take the shield off the media drive

just been probing my pot with multimeter and i am getting readings that are very off I have a DOL-001 unit i think it running a 101 drive as I am read 163 ohms so in theory I should be seeing between 450 and 600 ohms were as the model number with DOL-101 should see between 150 and 250 ohms

i know its not a DOL-101 machine as i have digital output.

so i am going to tune it up to 200ohms and see what happens.

Still not reading dvd-r could be my media I’m using does not matter as still reads original games so will do some experimenting with secondary unit.

Adding HDMI Support

there are a few different ways of doing this from cheap to really relay eye wateringly expensive. the holly grail would be the av out component cable costing around £200 followed by the eon HDMI output again around the £170 mark now as i doing this build on a budget I decided go cheap with a £5 cable from AliExpress this was less than impressive as was a cheap upscale washes out the screen hard to play with but good to get me started whilst i waited for more bits to arrieve

I also invested in a £59.99 GC2HDMI Kaico Gamecube GC HDMI this is a AV plug in and play just doubled the scan lines this gave me true 521p output. the difference is incomparable but see below the images from both files. well worth medium outlay

Cheap cable image below on left hand image kaico on the right much better image.

Gameboy Card Cartridge reader addon

these are getting hard to find but as i found on sub £60 without software box or anything else I thought why not as I am going the full hog on this project i also invested in a multi game cart for fun. will also invest in a multi card for GBA as well for fun if it works.

But there’s no software with well homebrew will take care of this with GBI homebrew interface which works like a charm perfect addition for my game cube.

Broadband adapter

So this was only used for one game in total but can now be used for uploading to the game cube remotely thought this might aid with the project well when i can find one for reasonable money.

i have put this hear to talk about the theory of what it can do till i have my hands on one think i will be going to some retro games shows.

27/05/2022

How owning a 3d printer can change the way you solve problems

So as some on who loves to problem solve I thought I would share my first world problem and solution. So during the lockdown, we purchased a hands-free foaming soap dispenser this thing has had a mind of its own as light-sensitive so have moved it around the downstairs bathroom and now randomly dispenses soap on the floor so have decided to make a catcher so it will go in the sink.

So out with callipers and radius tool, this is a game-changer

now I have some radius and dimensions I have made a simple sketch infusion 360 that i will now take from 2d to 3d.

I then printed a small test form so I could make sure it fitted the operation as didn’t want to make a 17hr print to find it did not fit.

test print just to make sure all is well

ok so have adjusted from the wall to the front lip as 96mm fitted front but there is a 2mm deviation further you go to the corner. So now ready to print the 94 mm version just need to order some PETG in white that will be here tomorrow before I kick off the 17hr print might even film it for fun.

Time to print fingers crossed this will fit.

so will check back in the morning to see how it’s done as it’s only 54 mins in time to play some VR on my oculus quest 2 before I check in on it again. woke to spaghetti filament had jammed thankfully it stopped itself. So away we go again.

3hrs in will check back later

16hrs om there’s been some warpages on the base but should not matter 1hr 50mins left I’m going to bed report back in the morning.

Well, the results speak for themselves and works well I might add some foam tape to fix it in place as it does move when pushed.

on to the next project

11/04/2022

Time to get my cnc machine up and running again!!!

As my pc died over Christmas I have been putting this off for a while but now want to make some bits and the CNC will be perfect for this so I am going to get the machine working. and do some more modifications to it on the route. this is a 3040T Chinese milling machine.

I am also going to try CNC carving and milling with fusion360 as prior I have used other packages but seeing as fusion 360 is my go-to for design. as I learned on AutoCAD it shares a lot of similarities. more on this later.

The Story so far

This is so you don’t need to go back through the site. I brought this machine thinking CNC was easy as 3d printing and laser cutting it’s not. had the machine collecting dust for a year. during lockdown made an enclosure modified the machine to add some custom made end-stops and got rewired it and had a light bulb moment. then made a custom wast board with threaded inserts.

So as I wait on components from china for the cave monster time to clean out the enclosure and add make some bits to make my china CNC machine great and teach myself some more about CNC.

the spoil board is where I got to last time before the crash. and was working on a custom dust shoe. then other projects took over so I’m now going to start to make more stuff on my machine. So this I blog of my progress. see the photo montage below.

Time to clean my machine

As the machine has been sitting for a year since I last switched it on.

Before I get started getting a feeling I am going to need to clean the cooler water for the CNC machine, Ok not terrible but needed a cleand as organic material in the bucket. out with the old and time to clean the bucket fill it with some a 50/50 mix so 5L anti-freeze and 5L of deionised water as then bucket should keep it nice and clean going forward. now to pump it through the system see the pink in pipes and check for leaks, no leaks.

Now I have a clean machine I now to set it all back up. so over to the pc well remote link to the pc as it’s cold outside. so installed a remote desktop on the cave computer and have the machine running as the control box is on.

The Setup

Now to find my note as need to revisit them and get all the settings plummed back in.

Have installed mach3 need to install a plugin for the control board and MPG luckily have saved all this all in my dropbox so just drag and drop it all into my mach3 folder.

next up remembering pin set up so port 3 pin 1 = estop pin 2 = home switch pin 3 = limit switch and pin 4 = probe plate. so into inputs check there all right and enabled they are.

following the Chinglish guide, I go through the motor tuning and select all the right bits.

Config menu ports/pins

Next select input signals copy below

as i have added home and limit swtiches this is off wha the manual said now scroll down and enable estop and prob.

Now over to output signals tab.

Motor tuning for x y x follow below

now for A and splindle

now spindle

dont for get to hit save Axis settings after each change.

now one thing i forgot to set limits and homing that will mean your homing in revirse so on x and y dont forget to home Negtive only on x and y and your golden i have also set up the soft limits to prevent from crashing.

now to home the machine hmm it all z homes right x and y

adding edge finding and z zeroing tools scripts I highly recommend checking out

https://www.youtube.com/user/sunny5rising

The legend that is Charlie Sarsfield followed his instructions on adding limit and home switches and his tool zeroing and edge finding scripts and install them

and now to make sure the machine spins and does what it’s meant to all works fine will be adding a new calibration plate so will test the scripts work like a charm

So the machine is back to working but me being me time to modify it some more.

Upgrading dust extraction system

before I start running some projects I am going to revisit the dust extraction as it’s okay just not brilliant lots of leeks for dust. so I’m going to make this modular and dust-tight hopefully I have added some fins to my dust shoe so it should suck all the dust-up am also adding parts so that vacuum tubing that will go through a flang that I can plug my shop vacuum in and out of. so over to fusion 360 to model the flange.

now to test fit that before I make the inner flange. well it sorts of works i forgot to attach the inner tube so is floating so now making 2 outer tubes one so made them box the 35,2mm inner and then made so it will fit over the centre tube then enlarged it out to 36.5 mm with a 45mm outer

as for the tube end, I have made an inner opening end for 39.5mm and the flange end made it 35.2mm have then glued them to the flange. and screwed it to the enclosure. I forgot to take pictures doh here it is partly assembled with a vacuum hose attached from the vacuum end.

Have 3d printed a nozzle for the 40mm vacuum tube that I have a 5m length that i brought previously so I could extend the hose for the shop vacuum. I found a design some time ago and had test fitted it so I have cut down some vacuum hoses for the internals of the enclosure now going to print some clips to secure the hose internally to the roof of the enclosure.

all plummed in have ordered a new dust shoe from that has arrived fits well got to make adapter tube up infusion nothing flashy inlet side is 38.5mm and output of 36mm

2hrs later and it fits like a glove just need to trim down the hose lenth and install clamp

as now can plug the shop vac in and out. I might upgrade that too as is not too powerful think that will be next month’s shop if I feel it needs it.

Clamps

First up I needed clamping arms as I had a few issues with the tape method that everyone raves about. i might revisit this

so found some CNC clamps that I saw teaching tech use on a video so going to give them ago I will also test out some style ones as well as I need different ways of clamping down materials.

So new untested eSun PETG filament loaded into neon orange and away we go will check seems to be laying down fine layer 5 and only a little mess on the bed will check back later.

have now printed 3 diffrent styles will be testing them all out once I have the machine up and running. as we have some nice weather coming over the next few weeks willl get some diffrent materials as well.

I will be testing them all out I have a feeling the big one in the middle is too big for my hobby CNC machine.

have also designed my own one as well will do seprate post on that as this is already gone from being a quick post to entertaing me to another

Zeroing tool upgrade

Next up going to change my zeroing tool for a new one I have purchased off eBay.

as I was clever and used the power connector just need to unplug the old one and swap the wiring over now. All done and the magnet works well no hassle of crocodile clips well worth the £30

now back to the automated edge finder and tool z hight scrips now I know the XY thickness is 10mm and the z is thickness is 12mm so need to change the variables as shown below.

you will need to do this for all 4 scrips

time to test the system

test complete have moved the plate off material and hit go to zero not bad going it a little off I didn’t set the tool diameter so that might be the reason it’s away from the corner.

Setting up Chinese CNC with fusion 360

Now I could do this using a different method as having used other CNC design software in the past and still have access to it but me being me decided I would go another route as keen to learn more about fusion as it is more than just 3d modelling tool.

So time to put some scrap wood in and see how we go, going to start with something simple as I am going to use my go-to program for design to try the manufacturing side of the program that I have no experience with so going to make a pocket in some wood with a simple part to see how it works.

as with anything design related i need to take some measurements so i am going to start by measuring my scrap of pine in the machine, I make it 200mm x 200 mm x 12mm then made a note of this so when it gets to it the program will know how big the piece is. i am going to machine is.

Next, i will need to make a list of tools as all the sample tools are developed for big milling machines with quick-change collets one day when I have a big workshop I will get a bigger machine. but for the time being, mine is only 3040 well actually it’s less than that more like a 3727.

time to gather some data for tools so I have ordered a set of six tools from china and with that i have the following data. so going to add them to the system along with some end mills and facing tools that I have in my collection.

I have also found prior information on some other bits I ordered in the past so been collecting them in a file to add as well.

The tool adding can be found in utilities under tool management

Click library then click the plus icon you will be greeted with a tool selection screen

you will be greeted with a tool selection screen screen

so in this case will be adding a 6mm end mill so I select the end mill.

Time to give the tool some description vendor name as I don’t have a link or id won’t add them.

No to add cutter detail so I have this information on the tool

I have copied speeds from another package as the default 5000 speed on the tool was mega slow. so have now upped it to 16000 and have calculated a minim feed rate 17.882 meters per min now running it 650 feed rate as 18 was way slow for wood.

now hit ok as don’t have a holder template for the depth of tool 0 as I don’t think it’s necessary as will zero tool after each tool changes this is more for an auto-loading tool machine perspective.

tool set up complete

So infusion I have made this test part nothing special just make some pockets and will do more if it works this is a stage of learning so let’s see how it goes.

test part is not needed for anything just a quick sketch to see if it works

Now to switch from design to manufacturing add the tools then let’s see what they do.

Now for the set up this did seem a little daunting in the beginning think I have figured it all out I am going to only use one tool as this is experimental.

Click the setup button I am first going to move the origin from the centre to the front of the design is the same as the stock size it’s easy just click the dot on the front. as show below

now the stock tab I have changed the stock to be relative to the box with no offset.

The dimensions from earlier 200 x 200 x 12 and the stock match perfectly

Next to the program number and comment.

now we have this set up I am programming in a 6mm end mill so adding to the tool library.

so have programmed this six mm end mill in as the quickest one to add

first up going to perform this in 2 processes first am going to be pocketing the selected areas in the design then I will boar out the corner holes.

so to start going to the 2d pocket will then set the tool as my 6mm endmill. I will then select the 5 areas that I need to pocket out. click ok next under the 2d tool panel i selected the boar function with a 6mm tool selected each hole all 4 of them. selected ok.

I have run the simulation and it all looks like a good time to test it.

Time to post-process it then load it to the machine. and zero tools find the edges and we should be good to go.

The file generated not sure if mach3 accepts that but let’s have a look

Ok, the .tap isn’t recognised as a file in mach3 but I duplicated the file and changed the extension to .gcode will now load this into mach3 and see what it spits out.

loaded as you can see thinks the part is top left corner need to zero the tool to material height and find the edges using the zeroing tool and edge finder.

right zeroed the tool correctly and fount the edges got to love the auto edge and z finder. as you can see the image has been generated to fit the stock

right that’s worked will run the test programme and see what happens to wish me luck. Ok, that failed as it went in the wrong direction. I think the Origen is reversed going to change that in Fusion 360 then try again.

ok, I am a tit missed out on something from setting up in the homing limits in mach3 doh so I needed to tick 2 boxes. now homes correctly. as I am here also going to set up some soft limits so this all works right.

Away we go slow but steady think I need to mess with the speed and feed as it’s in and going down yay and the clamping just failed.

As I have caught covid again in bed writing this so have had some time to reflect on the failure of the first run. back into fusion 360

go tool management and time to set some parameters so Spindel speed upping to 16000 and 650 meters per min feed rate I have also added multiple depths so it will now not go down 18 mm and try cutting out so now have set it to 5mm per pass switched to 2D adptive clearing.

let’s try running this test program recalculated with new clamps fingers crossed, going to use the same blank as woods not cheap and being pine won’t kill me on the dust.

first, to zero all parameters so out with the new zero tools and find the edges going to jog the too over the zero probes I have a magnet connected to the tool then on mach3 hit tool zero. the probe will go down and touch the plate touch and retract then go to jog x side of the tool and go to offset screen and hit auto x will move to the x-axis side of the tool and retract repeat on Y size using auto Y same will happen tool will move to the tool and retract system all zeroed now to remove tool and magnet off a bit. hit zero and the tool will be sitting just above the bottom left front.

Now to start the program away we go.

working but feed rates way off so going to update .

so back in to fusion as my gcoding days are long time ago so i am letting the program do the legwork. as you can see scraps had some battle wonunds not to self dont go to zero all when tool is down in the wood hoping it will be machined over have stopped the job. time to restart it. as the rate it was running would have taken a long time machine. now upped feeds from 18 to 650 mm/min so will now run the final 4 pocket first one turned out well.

faster feed and we are finaly making dust

so have removed one pocket out of the design i think will run some other processes on this modle as i go but will attach the dust shoe as well as could feel dust in the air. but think i am going to leave that for another post as this has dragged on all week.

Now that I have figured out the basics I want to try running some projects carving from an STL file. making a 2d PCB and then using a bit to drill make the holes and engraving tools to make the tracks on single and double-sided copper PCB board, make some complex parts out of aluminium and more. these will be broken into different learning posts as don’t want to bog down this blog so will be another post as I learn more about both the software and machine.

Parts Incoming just had a bumper instalment of bits. so will be a post about this soon as want to make this a quick to set up stable.

01/04/2022

How to make quick jigs

In this case, I have 50 wooden yoyos I will be customizing. so I needed to make a jig for doing 4 at a time as I have 6months to complete this job for my boy’s birthday.

so first up I have my yoyo. so out with flang tool and callipers

in this case, I have used this to make a jig to hold 4 wooden yoyos so in this case, I used my callipers to measure the radius of the yoyo height and then used the fillet gauge to work out the curved radius on the edge of the yoyos 11mm then using

So over to light burn as this is where all the engraving magic going to happen drew a rectangle 120x120mm drew a circle 52.5m then using the array tool made 4 circles I grouped them then centred them in the rectangle. now to save this file will come back later to use it for the job. will export the file as a .dfx

Now to open fusion 360 to import the dfx into it. as I want things to match between the 2 files. now that I have my 2d sketch in fusion. time to extrude the base by 22mm I will then flip it and cut it to the base by 18mm with 4 pockets I then added the fillet tool using 11mm and ready to print.

ok now to slice it and print it.

now back over to light burn to finalise the jig. I have measured the inner dim of the yoyo to 41.32mm ruffly i am going to size the centre at 40mm across. so will draw a circle in the centre of each circle this is my outer engrave marker.

Now to make some trim lines as going to make a cutoff board with a cutout for the jig. as shown below will make a 120mm hole for jig and also cut the bard size down in size hopefully.

so the red line is the cut line the teal lines are frames so just show and don’t cut just marker.

after the initial cut, I will turn all red lines into frame lines

jig board is now made this will be placed on the laser bed at the beginning of running a job.

fixing is now printed I could of run this using my CNC machine to make it in a fraction of the time part but printed instead as my CNC machine needs to be set up as i had a drive crap out on me so lost all settings. that is for another time.

now to use it on my machine but first, a test fit wow like a glove. just got to finalise the design for my son’s birthday party.

will do some engraving next in the machine. all set up will do a test run soon and up date this post

test run done just simple engraving on one to see how it works before I run more.

well, this was a bit of fun for the 2-day quick project more to follow as love putting out these quick easy projects.

09/03/202209/03/2022

How to remix a stl in fusion 360

you will need a licence for fusion 360 I have a free hobby licence that is limited but till i get time to learn the cam side of the program it’s free to me unless Autodesk feels kind and wants to give me a licence. not that they will read this anyhow.

open up fusion 360

the file I am going to remix is this spray can holder.

the file can be found here

Now to remix it or in this case, I am going to create 2 bars for aligning it on the wall by using its original parts as a template. over to fusion

then go to insert drop-down insert mesh

you then can position it how you want i this case will keep it as it is so select ok,

now press s on your keyboard then type mesh you will select convert mesh.

Now select the stl

then hit ok on defaults as all other options only in paid verison.

at this point you can simplify the sketch and make it fewer polygons by selecting segments and removing them hitting delete as shown below

So why do this well on flat surfaces makes it easier to select planes.

go to the sheet metal tab select Create Sketch, you are now going to select face to edit.

select highlighted plane and click you will now see it like below.

I am going to start off making a bar so i am going to hit L on the keyboard and will give me a line command.

as I am using snap to have determined the endpoint where I want to start the line click mouse to start the line

I next go to the bottom right corner of where I want the box i am making to be this will give me a guideline.

like below can now draw the 2 lines needed

close the shape

Now hit enter.

so that is literally the only bit i need for my idea but actually going to 2 as I want the top and bottom lugs to make int to alignment bars. so going to repeat this process and then we will continue.

I am now going to remove the original part from the system as i have the 2 elements i require for the alignment bars as will be easier than removing all the material I don’t need.

then hit del and sketch will remain

now to extrude it on both parts 100mm as think it’s a good size so hit E on the keyboard when selected object

hit enter and repeat on the bottom section of the file now change view please not i have moved them together for illistations.

Now to make the parts you now want to go to utilities tab select make

select the parts and in chose options as 2 body will need to do this twice.

this next part is as I have set my Prusa slicer to open when I make them so at this point you could save them as stl

now the part is in my slicer i am going to set it up for print by changing position before i save it out as an stl.

first to make it flat to the bed i will use the place on face tool F for a quick keyboard cheat

will select the bottom face

part ready to print in this case going to save it as a stl.

click the part then right-click and select Export as STL

save and parts done. then added them to one file ready to print will show more detailed remixes soon

then its over to the printer via octoprint in my case and away it goes as i have doubled up the parts as to racks going on the wall will take 2hrs to print.

parts all done ready for a test fit.

can find my files here do love a quick 1 day project parts are in to finish off the cr-10 so that should be up soon.

04/03/202204/03/2022

World Book day fun

So my sons harry potter mad and wanted to dress as harry potter for world book day, long of the short we had lost his harry potter glasses.

So being the creative type and someone who loves to recycle designs I found an old harry potter prop I had designed for photos and decided to make some wooden prop glasses.

I then made the first pair of glasses up by removing the outer cut line and then using a square and weld tool I added some more girth to opposite end of the glasses offset the outer edge by 3mm and then notched it using the vector path edit tool to add 2 reference points and then converted notch to a path. then matched the outer edge of the glasses and made 10 x 100 mm rectangle as I had done a ruff measure of my son’s head. to the top edge, I used a circle tool to make a circle in the top edge of the rectangle then off set it inward by 10 mm to make the downward curve for behind the ear I then added a 10mm square to add some length circle to round off the bottom of the arms using path editor joined all 4 parts together and removed all bits I didn’t need. thin I did an offset inwards and set it to fill. then did a 3 x 5mm rectangle and placed in to cut path and i used the convert to path tool and inserted it in to the path. time for the first cut of the design. forgot to capture the screen of the original design doh.

it worked but was loose as can be on my son so went back in a remixed it a little by shrinking size by 20mm on the arms and smoothing all sharp edges I also made a bridge by using path editor and adding a curve in the middle top and bottom.

back to cutting now fits perfectly one happy boy who had it on all day,

A nice quick one. love the joy of making my boy happy.

30/01/202228/02/2022

CR-10 Upgrades part 6

this has been a bigger build than I first expected around 100 hrs of printing a lot of remixing was involved so some things worked some things I have had to print again and again till correct. think they are all correct now as they fit for me.

As will any project files they are a work in progress. still need to reprint final fixes to test but the current design work with some drilling or being an angel so no rush for me. i would say there are a good few days of printing involved with this project. but well worth it.

So what this part covers:

All in one Cr-10 Remixed for Dual Y-Axis linear rails kit
UPS 12v big tree tech
Filament runout sensor big tree tech
Modifing TFT screen firmware.
Dragon Hotend and issue correction
BISQU Flexplate

All in one Cr-10 Remixed for Dual Y-Axis linear rails kit

This is a remix of this design by Cornely_Cool can find the original design here. you will need these files for some of the builds my remix replaces the front-rear panels front left panel and several of the base plate files. this is a work in progress it works for me as of me writing this blog post.

The link to the files can be found here.

So why am I doing this the original printed mod I built-in part 3 or 4 doesn’t work with the upgraded linear rails so It doesn’t fit so going to make something using an existing design with a remixed twist as its not 100 % right for me due to the dual linear rails and the design wasn’t using SSR and some other bits. First up going to salvage parts and order up some metal work going to raise the machine 60mm and have another 70 hrs of printing ahead of me first up parts. needed some aluminium 2020 and 2040 some connectors to hold it all together some corner plates and some new rubber feet as I disposed of my original feet from my cr10 also have hight clearance is an issue with a shed roof. might still need to lower racking. have also ordered a small 5v 3amp PSU to internally power the pi that’s running the printer. as this is a custom build have also ordered some aviation plugs to tidy up the wiring and install better-suited wiring. I will have a sonsoff switch as master power on and off and use relays to turn on and off power and lights for web camera. I will publish a full shopping list. end of the post when I have calculated what I used and what you will need. will add build of material

Time to start the remix so starting with the base panels going to remix the Mosfet panel as don’t use one as running a silicon heat bed. so will house SSR relay, a 2 channel 5v relay for lights and printer and UPS board if and when it all shows up.

this is done using the panel as a reference and using PCB footprint diagrams have added a 6mm standoff for each part.

will house SSR UPS and 2 channel 5v relay it a work in progress relay fits just only screws fit

Next up I am going to remix the raspberry pi and pi PSU plate as I am going to use a hard-wired PSU 5v 3A so will need to make some mount holes for the PSU but first going to test its powerful enough. as I don’t have a reference diagram going to photograph the underside of the PSU and measure it using it as a reference image. will then trace holes for mount. won’t print it till I have tested PSU. have made some air vents and bars so i can make holes to mount it when it’s done.

the PSU holes are off as on the wrong side but will drill and bolt PSU in place. The final file changed but might be off.

The final modification is to the mainboard fixing plate so used the existing plate as a reference for size then added footprint overlay to trace holes for mounts.

insterted image of board set to size as reffrence

the final hurdle was going to print the massive PSU plate on the cave monster cr-10 but due to wiring snagging I cannot print on it so into Prusa slicer have cut it in 2 will print half and half on both the Prusa so I can do it in half the time will line up and glue the halves together.

Now that I have remixed all required base plates now I am going to centre the middle post I have remixed the font panels to be blank as due to the dual linear kit I cannot fit a front-mounted screen. so going to remake the panels to smaller and more central with a 5mm notch to allow for fixing plates.

Gone for a central notch 5mm deep changed it again since this maid it longer.

Next, up is the power plug panel got to notch this and move the power connector as it’s right in the way of the plate.

slotted for brackets with 5 mm and move power connector by 20mm to the right changed it again as just on the borderline.

The last plate finishes just base plated to finalise. just had to add a hole for cables for the screen

The last panel was modified for screen cables for mounting to the frame.

Time to start printing I am going to run it all in PETG. time for some overnight parts I am going to set my Prusa’s going shame I haven’t reinstalled Octofarm to run this but will do on the next build as will be running 3 printers in it. About 4 days in now all printed apart from pi and PSU mount that’s currently running and some fixing brackets. time to build the base has been tweaked the construction of the metalwork with some extra brackets to make sure this going to the stable with the printer on top of it.

last part on the prusa printing then to assemble it all.

Oh wait fan director last 8hr print that’s overnight parts for as I am already deep in assembly.

last print of base builds overnight parts.

Time to build it.

Time to put it all together for the final time hopefully and I can then put a pin on this machine.

first up assembled outer frame with base runners and corner plates with the feet i have brought. will bolt down the centre rail once I have centred it on the base plates.

now I have a squared base I will add the uprights and bolt them down with the L brackets i have sanded the tabs on the printed walls so starting from 2040 I placed the first part I then added a bit of 2020 in the middle and continued on till all the walls was installed then using 2040 plates i bolted the base to the 2020 uprights. I will add another bracket on top of this to secure the printer to the base.

now on to the base panels, I will place them loose before I add the fixing clips in place.

all my components line up perfectly well almost but still bolts down sold just need to adjust the centres slightly as the footprint diagram I found is wrong on the relay. I am getting better with each project build. now everything is in place have added the clips have bolted down all the components apart from PSU as need to modify it for the upgraded fan.

fitted new PSU base plate but holes are off, needs to modify

Final version the pi & PSU plate is done holes are wrong but I just drilled new ones and screwed it down with some 6mm M3 bolts I will start wiring up tonight.

actually going to need cable management. so time to fire up the Prusa 1 more time for a plate of connectors.

The wiring

First up will run the mains wiring from the 3 pin kettle connector to the Sonoff switch then across the on/off switch for the pi PSU and the main printer PSU. now I have the main power in.

Main power all in forgotten my wifi password so I cannot test the Sonoff all fit perfectly.

Next, I will run negative connections for the 2 channel relay and link the relay to the pi so I can control it via Octoprint. I will then run the positive to the PSU and lights circuit for the web camera. next up are the jumpers from relay to the raspberry pi going to use 5v ground gpio 23 and 24 pins I am also going to use 3.3v and pin 9 ground and pin 14 for a temperature sensor inside the enclosure so I can adjust the fan if it gets too hot inside.

Ok, my worries about the mini PSU and voltage is fine there is no under-voltage which is great as sometimes things are not what they are advertised as.

time to pull out the wiring diagram for the mainboard.

list all connectors as you can see negative and positives are needed on end-stops and thermostats if not get kill alarm so on the end-stops and thermostats square is= to ground.

end stops and motor connecotrs are wired board side got to do some soldering but will cover that later as need to make some new wires for the heat bed and y-axis.

I am actually going to modify one of the front panels to house a Micro sd card reader and a fan speed controller PCB so back into fusion 360 going to add foot block and add 2 3mm holes to mount the front 2 PCB holes as then in the main plate I will add an 8mm hole for the potentiometer. then over the other side of the panel, I am going to cut a hole for the sd card reader to squeeze into I will then fix it with hot glue. as the original design used a USB switch to allow for firmware update the skr board only allows for MicroSD upgrade so as the board is going to be embedded this will allow for firmware upgrades in the future.. this will be a 4 hr print I think. as I test fitted the 2 halves I needed to reprint this anyway as it’s off by 10mm so now will fit perfectly under the front plate support

So out with the callipers, I go to make everything will fit and is sized correctly. time to modify the sketch.

will do an overnight prototype print. well, morning has come and yes everything fits fine just need to screw the PCB down and hot glue the sd card extension in place and we are a bit of sanding for the tabs and should be good to fit. note to self make sure you sand the tabs another 3 hrs print and will defently resand the front panel as snapped a tab these things happen when prototyping but its starting to take shape.

whilst I’m at it going to add 10mm space on the rear power panel as it was very tight prefer there is some wiggle space more airflow as well going print it on ultraviolet tonight back on with the assembly tomorrow.

redesigned as was too tight on the centre spacers.

All panels are now fitted going to cut myself an aviation plug holder jig. so out with a sheet of acrylic time to cut and bolt together.

So over to light burn a sheet of acrylic in the machine let make this design I got off Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4201220. I have relayed it out slightly different as I want to fit on a sheet of 300×400. if someone wants it will share it.

as I want a good connection going to start with the 4 pins i have given up on the six-pin as NEMA wiring is too fragile.

Not everything you find on Thingiverse is right so had to modify the file slightly to get it to work but now a more compact jig. as the dfx is segmented and didn’t cut right in light burn fixed now and modified the base as was too big for smaller workspace ready to solder tonight. got 1 socket to solder

assembled ready to make my new connectors

Nice and neet now for the heat bed connector need a new connection as the board is about 20cm further than it was originally also my bad soldering means it intermittently doesn’t work. so time for a fresh connector.

time to solder up a new heat bed connector with longer wires so I can wire direct to PSU and solid-state. out with my soldering iron I know the following

Pin 1 = Thermostat Positive if wired wrong alarm will sound on SKR board

Pin 2 = Thermostat Negative if wired wrong alarm will sound on SKR board.

Pin 3 = Heated Bed as 220vac voltage don’t matter which goes to witch

Pin 4 = Heated Bed as 220vac voltage don’t matter which goes to witch

have put continuity meter across the pin and end of the cable and they all check fine

now to wire it all up and we should be good to test.

all ready just need to shorten the neo pixel cable as made it way too long. going to use the bit I chopped the neo pixel wire I will use for the filament run-out sensor cable. Then it’s time to finesse the cable management.

The next issue the fan direction vent is hitting the y axis so going to make my own custom offering so going to find the footprint of 120mm fans going to make it easier to fit low profile fan shrowd. should have space as gone for 35mm high to 19mm high

So should have good clearance space. 6hr print will run tonight need to swap filament as running low on Neon orange.

The wiring list is getting shorter just time consuming getting there.

end stop and motors temperature sensors and relay wiring left before I’m done.

Time to link the raspberry pi to the relay using 5v ground and pins gpio pins 23 and 24.

Temperature sensor installs time so using 3.3v ground and Gpio pin 14 for the probe have added the Dupont connectors to go over the gpio pins going to have to do some changes via rasp-config to let the system know pin 14 is sensor pin. but will check if this is needed or not as it is an old guide I read. I will also need to add a plugin so it will display the internal temperature of the enclosure so I can monitor and adjust the fan speed accordingly.

going to have to change the sensor type as this type I have installed does not have a pull-up resistor on it so just ordered another type off eBay so will swap it out.

Finally, The wiring is now all complete just need to test everything works.

finished all internal wires oh wait missed the lighting circuit Relay.

The camera light relay I have pre-made a cable from the 12v supply the positive will go to the power connector negative will go via the relay so I can switch camera lights on and off when a print starts and ends. have had a change in the design as I’m not using USB switch going to wire power connector to where the switch was going an install an A to A USB panel mount so I can connect the camera to pi externally power will be via the relay so I can turn halo on and off if required, should have parts Monday. as I wired the power socket tonight I had a thought about the USB connection wouldn’t work. back over to fusion 360

Designed the first version it’s printing now but it’s not going to work as needs relief for the screws so have remixed it further and come up with this going to print it so have both options but think this is the winner.

As you can see from original to remix v1 and final v2 these are the things you have to take into account when remixing a project.

In fact, I am going to redesign it again as the cable layout is different so back into fusion I go doing a scrapy print to see if it works but this should be the final design have made a few changes including screw head relife and it fits perfectly added to the remix pack

version 3 with cut out for plug that turned up

this project is pushing my design skill and I love it.

the finished item I do love playing around in 3D print.

Time to fit it all into the machine.

Right, I am on the home straight I need to make some form of protection for the printer’s innards.

going to cut some black acrylic insert them in the middle of 2020 extrusion as dust covers.

so been thinking about how to do this without having to remove the front of the printer going to do some testing. I am going to cut some test bits 20 x 74 mm at a start to see if I can insert it then centre and add a fixing clip to hold it in place I will then make will also design a middle clip that can be removed to gain access. well,

that’s the idea, time to make some test bits. so over to light burn and as I have some offcut left from the jig build going to cut some strips to see what can be inserted,

time to cut some interest to test have labelled them for ease of use

So looking front on Left = 77 middle = 146 right = 75 now to make 2 x 200 long size X plates for each area will then 3D print the customizable design for centre plates then to design some clips that will be after I have the covers fitted.

I have decided to make it a 3d printable version obviously they will be subject to where your cross braces are. but you can customise them in the slicer. i am going to print my covers so they match the base as I could cheat but I want this to be a mostly printable design. also, put a clip together

the first plate is printing

here is the centre plate design will be making left 70mm, 138mm and right 68mm. the centre area 72mm across. total area 100mm

Clip design I have put these in to hold the panels in 3 per panel so 24 in total. currently printing a sheet.

final plates are printing on the printers should have all the dust covers done tonight then I am ready to assemble the 2 parts have hit one minor snag as the end stop bar is skimming the middle plate need to take a few mm off it to get it to work right will think about how I do this might just be a shorter screw and a 10mm off the tube with a hacksaw. No, I own a 3d printer. so now printing a shorter 11mm x 20mm tube and have a shorter screw to fix the issue.

only issue is the centre plate as the end stop bar is clipping it.

All fixed worked like a charm now does not rub on plates and makes contact with the endstop. all plates fitted made a cut out for dust cover so waring was more neat.

dust covers all fitted and wiring from neo pixel hidden also hidden the filament sensor wiring if there’s any interest will publish all the other bits I found on Thingiverse that used to help with the project.

Yay parts from china

Just as I was about to put a pin in this build and post the post I have now received parts from aliexpress so back on to some more upgrades. lol so this will be tomorrow as one PCB to fit and wire and one sensor to attach. and a Flexi plate to stick and fit.

So a new day has dawn going to try wrapping this up today bar printing or tuning.

UPS big tree tech

This should be easy to install one 3 pin plug to the mainboard from the ups and 12v supply just got to figure out where to place the board in the enclosure I think I am going to make some holes and add some standoffs as I did with the 2 channel relay. need to look into firmware changes for its use will cover this at the end of this post.

My fingers are crossed my calculation for the footprint of the board is correct and this just pops in with some m3 screws. Well, I’m too good fits perfectly just got to finish wiring it up.

Make sure that the + & – are wired correctly as will destroy the PCB if wrong they are labelled on the bottom of the PCB then links them to the power input on the mainboard like shown below.

then insert the 3 pin connector and connect to pwr-det on the mainboard and then back to ups PCB and it’s all installed hardware-wise.

Now for firmware changes

There are 2 files you will need to change first is in the feature folder look for powerloss.h

I have changed debut and saved each cmd this will save the last state on the printer if there is a loss of power now over to the Configuration_adv.h search for POWER_LOSS

then uncomment the above this is set up for my printer mainboard so pin number might need changing on your device. and purge and retract might need changing as well.

will compile this after making other changes for the filament runout sensor

Filament runout sensor big tree tech

As I waiting for this to arrive seller sending another one middle of February so instead of moping around the workshop getting ready for it all to arrive.

Ok have found a bracket on Thingiverse I am going to remix it so I can mount the bracket directly to my 2020 so will be adding 2 tabs in Fusion 360 so I make this a reality. first, I am going to import the mesh in and will draw two rectangles using the top face of the bracket I then extruded them by 4.40mm then made a centerline in a sketch and added matching holes time to print

Quick and dirty modification but will work.

I will print it shortly the spikes will print not sure why they ended up there are joys of modifying a mesh

Just waiting on the current print to finish should relay run the farm but need to get neon orange up and running it’s on my list of things to do. it’s a long list as always.

Printed ready to fit when I get the parts. just test fitted will just what I wanted.

As I now have the parts time to fit it all to the frame for real as the sensor has arrived.

hidden all the wiring in the frame with some clips.

Going to connect it to the mainboard E0-STOP port you will have to switch it on in the firmware pin 15 was already selected for filament runout.

Now you will need to turn it on in firmware so in configutation.h

find the following FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR and uncomment it like below.

Next, scroll down and uncomment the following FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR and FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTNCE_MM set it to 7

and with that just need to reflash with v5 of the mancave monster firmware on the mainboard and we should be good to go.

My Current Firmware CR-10 BTT E3 mini 2.0 with BTT UPS, BTT Filament runout sensor, BL touch and Neo Pixel 18 pixels installed compiled here if you want the vs code files ask and will happily link it for you.

all components are now installed going to join the 2 printer halves and running initial tests. fingers crossed before I permanently bolt them together. Wiring issue, not a big one negative on neo pixel is the wrong way around not a biggie just taken a photo of the pins.

Mine was the wrong way around so out with crimp tools and time to make it right.

remade the connection so let’s test it again. now seems to all be working.

Homes check bl touch works check hot end heats not working for heat bed erm ok not heating need to check the wiring.

Got a feeling negative is what I meant to pass through the SSR going to go back through my notes.

Was 2 issues had heat bed plugged into the extruder and hot end in the bed and the negative was positive no damage all fires up now and works

Just print the front left panel with a modified hole for screen cables. so going to leave that running overnight, just fitted and perfect so that’s finalised.

One thing i will need to revisit is the relay board but I think that will be done in the future as projects are already way overrun and used lots of PETG I really need to invest in centre callipers they are uber expensive one day shall order some.

Time to modifiy my racking

The next job is lowering the racking so I can fit the new printer on the shelf need to move the spool holders down and then drop the shelf level down by 15 cm approx.

cleared the shelf and now to focus on removing shelf and old wiring as will rehouse the wall-mounted pi down also binning cheep fans as they temperature should never get that great and the nose one of them I producing is bad.

Have managed to drop shelf approx 120 mm have refitted shelf and refitted Prusa’s have moved my pi off the wall and disconnected fan. I shall monitor CPU temp via the plugin.

Now to place the printer in its place well nearly first flash the firmware and cave monster ready for action well nearly as I want to finish off the mods before I set it in place.

TFT Screen firmware configuration

One final tweak I wanna look at is the firmware for the screen as want to disable a few features and rename some descriptions if I can not sure it’s possible. but by the power of google.

first up looking at the config.ini

In order for the TFT, firmware is able to provide all of its functionalities/features, ensure that the following options are enabled in Marlin firmware.

General options:

EEPROM_SETTINGS (in Configuration.h)
BABYSTEPPING (in Configuration_adv.h)
AUTO_REPORT_TEMPERATURES (in Configuration_adv.h)
AUTO_REPORT_POSITION (in Configuration_adv.h)
M115_GEOMETRY_REPORT (in Configuration_adv.h)
M114_DETAIL (in Configuration_adv.h)
REPORT_FAN_CHANGE (in Configuration_adv.h)

Options to support printing from onboard SD:

SDSUPPORT (in Configuration.h)
LONG_FILENAME_HOST_SUPPORT (in Configuration_adv.h)
AUTO_REPORT_SD_STATUS (in Configuration_adv.h)
SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD (in Configuration_adv.h)

Options to support dialogue with host:

EMERGENCY_PARSER (in Configuration_adv.h)
SERIAL_FLOAT_PRECISION 4 (in Configuration_adv.h)
HOST_ACTION_COMMANDS (in Configuration_adv.h)
HOST_PROMPT_SUPPORT (in Configuration_adv.h)

Options to support M600 with host & (Un)Load menu:

Options to support dialogue with the host (as a prerequisite)

NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE (in Configuration.h)
ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE (in Configuration_adv.h)
PARK_HEAD_ON_PAUSE (in Configuration_adv.h)
FILAMENT_LOAD_UNLOAD_GCODES (in Configuration_adv.h)

Options to fully support the Bed Leveling menu:

Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST (in Configuration.h)
G26_MESH_VALIDATION (in Configuration.h)

I didn’t use this as couldn’t get to compile I will revisit this

Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN (in Configuration_adv.h)

so that’s the merlin firmware now done not to look at the config.ini.

custom logo

so lots of settings and functions here have changed a handful of colours and the way it talks to octoprint.

next up going to look at the actual firmware pre-compiled so I can see what changes can be made. that will be a separate blog post I have added a new icon set and flashed the screen with new firmware to see if it helps.

Dragon Hotend and issue correction

K decided I would go the full whole hog and upgrade the hot end as well. as I wanna look at the movement in the x carriage on the extruder bracket. I also why it is quite tight on the belt.

Issue 1

I fixed it was the hole the direct-drive bracket is bigger than the m5 to linear rail bolt hole so have used 2 countersunk screws to centre the bracket. works well,

Fitted the dragon

I have removed the old OEM hot end. 2 screws and that’s gone now to fit the dragon hot end using Capricorn petg tube between it and the direct drive all fitted now to put the hot end back together upgrade is done. but not quite right cannot get filament into hot end tubes not quite long enough so time to order a length of it so I can get this right.

Issue 2

I noticed there is a lot of friction on the belt so I am going to swap the pully end around as I want this to be smooth and can align the pully across the beam. 4 front screws removed. pully off and rotated now to put the machine back together much smoother think I have fixed it might need a slight tweak but let home the machine and see what happens.

just going to make a benchy test. before I fit the new flexplate.

running into issues with filament sensor the hot end now clogged got a feeling the Capricorn tubes melted so I am going to strip down the hot end tonight and have a look and see if it’s down to that as removed nozzle and still cannot get the filament to come through. have ordered a back up hot end the big tree tech v6 hot end and a fixing bracket as a backup as got a feeling this isn’t right.

will disable the runout sensor for the calibration as I have a feeling it’s thinking it’s a clog on the hot end even though there is now a clog.

removed hot and cleaned and the issue blockage in the tube put it back together loaded it ran 20mm through it and bam blocked again so might be my filaments shit or the tolerances of the tube is too tight might try a different batch and see if I get any joy other wire going to revert back to my back up but that’s going to delay first print. by 3 weeks but going to launch this part of the build and then come back when it’s all printing right. at least makes me know that the runout sensor working. so will re-enable it after I have a calibrated machine.

going to first install the flex plate whilst i figure this out.

BISQU Flexplate

This is something I love on my Prusa printers will hopefully be the same experience. so to install going to need to stick the magnetic sticker to the glass bed.

so have turned over the glass sheet and cleaned it using isopropyl now to apply the sticker sheet went down will not be 100% straight but no one will notice.

before I test the plate on top. going start by resetting the EEPROM and then going through calibration again as don’t want to mess the sheet up. but that will be in part 7

all fitted now a waiting game for the new hot end so will leave this here final part will be testing it all out.

30/12/202131/12/2021

CR-10 Upgrades part 4

So this is all going to be 3d printed mods I have already done a 35hr print on the control board side I have printed the new feet need to print the SSR module clip might set that up whilst I am remote in wales the joys of being connected. so all I will need to do is 2 lids then will be ready for the pro upgrade.

also mounting on the screen on the side of the machine. might need to reprint the printing bracket. as want it on the left-hand side of the machine.

23hrs of printing done should be finished by the end of the day,

so just uploaded it to the local computer and now have kicked off the amazingly long 23min print haha so will only be 2 x 7hr prints left when I get home on Monday. just as I feared the small print it failed never mind noticed and cancelled the print. will check back with the main print later.

80hrs combined printing still a little cleaning to be done

wow, that’s the long prints done now for some smaller prints and armed with elnet the king of hair spray when it comes to getting prints to stick well. as Pritt stick is too messy. wow just saw the bend in the heat bed how did that happen bent it flat again. just going to adust the bed by probe till it’s nearly on the money then I might lock tight them in position for the moment. probably should have done that before I kicked off an 8hr print.

I will be going over to a flexible steel bed soon but till then I am going to continue on the old fashion way well till the credit card bill rolls and I then have my monthly spending pot.

lids and SSR printed and that just under 1kg of filament was done. on the case.

so time to strip out the old box and fit the electronics in the new one oh and to add the new feet so it will fit.

just need to order some silent fans as the control box fan is really annoyingly loud so I have orderd 120mm nocturia fan and I think i will need to order 80mm one for the PSU supply. I will be opening that up in the rebuild as one i dont know its voltage and 2 pin numbers 2 or 3 so will order that when i konw.. I then have to think about speed control as i don’t think they need 100% speed but that I will be looking into as we go, as going to monitor temprature with a probe in the electronics low voltage box.

Have been thinking about a name for my cr-10 modified machine that came up with cave monster. so the next round of modifications to the code will include a name change haha. will attempt to design him a logo as well for the boot screen.

as i have been spending alot of time getting everything printed for the next step i have been customising my octoprint layout and feel. also on christmas crafting for friends and family so yes been a fun week that and i am re jigging the work shop as need to add storage for extra tools as need to make it all work.

High voltage side.

time to look at power supply and lable up wring before i strip it out the box. next up power input and switch. I will be making new wiring for all power elements. First up adding the mains power plug and switch. looks like the are going to need a little help fitting so out with the dremal and they now fit. as it cold have stopped halfway through the job as working how and where to route the wiring and fit the ssr to the psu.

Also, going to wire the printer PSU through a 5v relay so i can turn the printer on and off through the raspberry pi cover this in the Low voltage side of the board but will cover that later.

Low voltatge side.

Now i have the power run across the board I will either add the bucks converter to step the 12v down to 5v to run the raspberry pi or I will use a mains adapter this will allow me to shut down the printer where as the other way would be a total power off. whilst I think I will install the pi and the main control board. am then going to install 2-way relay board so i can switch on/off the machine and lights via the relay.

Time to connect all the power wires and the heater wiring to the board and the SSR.

Now to add all the board inputs and output so end stops motors and sensor

next, it is time to fit the 120mm fan to keep things cool as its a 4 pin I will only use the 12v supply as should work will test this theory later also waiting on t-nuts so I can bolt this to the frame should have them later on today so will finish wiring ready to bolt it all together.

got one more print to go on as adding halo light to the camera so I can film all the loverly creations that I am making with the printer but that will be done once I have installed the rest of the electronics. going to make the camera mount a little more sensible as i feared there’s a little bit of a wobble when running.

testing halo /focus mount is not 100% right but fits and works soldered some longer wiring i will be

As I am waiting on parts as amazon let me down I will be getting the last bits sorted ready to bolt the boxes to the bottom of the printer. ok been a week had a family issue that’s now come to a sad conclusion. so back in London will try wrapping this stage up by Xmas but see what happens.

How my plans have changed

its been 2 weeks of hell over Xmas father in law passed away suddenly so was in wales for a week then came back to london and wife and son both have covid so stuck in london in the house i am negtive and they are both ok.

bad new but good news been working on the project and ironing out my kinks with it so where to start

It dont fit under my printer bed like its ment to due to my custom bed so instead of having a hissy fit throw 70 hrs printing. I am going to let be and will figure it out as i go i have welded the 2 sides together with some high strength glue and exsellitator now bonded together

i then have added some custom stand offs for the fan speed controler and 2 channel relay. i then drilled holes for external raspberry pi power and for fan controler knob. oh and power connector for the halo.

bit of wiring changes to the printer can be powerd off and on by the raspberry pi also using the 12v psu to power the halo light as well also had to change the wiring.

and we are good to go i am waiting on the next mods to show up from the far east got one PCB board still to fit so before i bolt it back together and start testing the new fetures

ready for install just power headers for the pi and add USB PCB when it gets here.

I will leave this here. get ready to part 5 this will be the final part i hope. so whats coming well a UPS 12v board from big tree tech. New fexable bed for the machine and fliminet runout sensor from big tree tech and upgraded linier rail upgrade and thats it.

i think after that i have run out of mods.

see you all in part 5.

03/12/202131/12/2021

CR-10 Upgrades part 3

Well as I await parts I will be working on a few issues and also designing some parts.

What I did not mention in the last part is I managed to drop the control box moving the printer back into the cave as it’s so big and the doorway is so tight. it is back in the cave no so I need to do a strip down and see what’s making my Y-axis go in reverse.

I have a feeling it’s damaged cable or end stop both are on order so should start on this shortly as really thought I had come to the end of the update journey. But no it’s become a paperweight well hopefully not for much longer.

So in part 3 plan is as follow.

Fix reversed Y-Axis after drop
Time to invstigate whilst i wait for new bracket
Fit proper X-axis linear rail bracket.
Reinstall hotend with direct drive & Install new hotend part cooler mod
Print a camera mount:

Fixing the reversed Y-axis:

this was working right till the control box that was balancing on the bed fell off and dangled. now the printer when homing goes in reverse. very odd I have ordered a new wiring loom and end switch. going to start by swapping the bent up end stop. that main pull was on and replace y loom fingers crossed. The end stop has arrived going to fit it now and see if that fixes the issues. If not back to waiting for the loom.

Looms arrived was the Y-Axis end stop wiring has broken out with the old in with the new.

Installing the updated motor mount and bed upgrade:

After ruling that wouldn’t fit the mods and I didn’t think they would fit.

I changed my mind and thought what’s the worst that could happen? So have fitted both the bed wasn’t too bad once I had lined up the centrical nuts up. I then added the new motor mount this wasn’t as much fun, as mounting it needed some parts that were not included. fist up need M5 T-Nuts luckily I had some, countersunk m5 screws again luckily I had these. right now to reattach the Y-Belt to the motor and the bed. for F#&k sake the belt is 100mm too short. looked through my draw of printer parts and spotted gt2 belts was a loop cut i and then rethreaded the bed. ok no to reattaching the end stop it wouldn’t fit as the holes in the bracket are for the raw small micro switch so have mounted the original end stop back in place if this causes issues can modify the end stop to fit on the brackets with old bent up microswitch scavenged for bits let us see hopefully not but have a backup plan.

all back together and homes ok so now for the next part of the project.

Time to invstigate whilst i wait for new bracket:

Now that I have a working printer going to do some more testing to see why it’s not printing right.

ski jump did hit camera mount im testing for later. bars hav foiled my install idea.

right has put a spirit level and my z was out slightly so have adjusted one of the rods. and the new result is better but still off. Hoping on the bracket to sort this out a bit better.

Just waiting on the arrival of the X-Axis bracket now as I am sure there that that is also compounding this. So as you might have figured I am doing other bits whilst I wait and updating this post as I go. Hoping by the end this will be an awesome printer.

The bracket is in the UK just waiting on delivery so probably in 48hrs time. so time to strip off The offending bracket and strip down the hot end ready for the new bracket to arrive

Fit proper X-axis linear rail bracket.

Out with the v2 bracket as there’s a 5mm difference between the centres. as you can see I have removed the modified direct drive hot end as I think this is also the issue with print being fine on one side and in the bed on the other. time to add the bracket and fit the 2 screws. before moving on to the hot end and direct drive. it fits but!! mgn9 rails kit not 12 argh never mind ordered new rail so will sort this out next week.

Reinstall hotend with direct drive & Install new hotend part cooler mod.

I have repopulated the direct-drive motor I have rotated the motor for cleaner wire management. I will now reattach the hot end and fit the modified parts and hot end cooler as it uses existing fans and screws. I had to get my craft knife on it to make it fit but fits fine

I have reattached the BL Touch need to measure the offset form probe to the sensor in the x-axis its -41 and in the y axis, it – 5 so will need to recompile merlin to get it working to make a note of the setting for later. I am already going to need to do this when I add other functions to the board that i will cover in the next post,

Ok next issue

just did a test moving the extruder head to make sure it homes ok and there is a bolt head hitting the z-axis bracket so I have solved this by swapping it for a button head bolt that now makes contact with the end stop so homes fine.

Right, let’s run a bed visualizer scan and see how it is now.

So out with the solid mounts and I think i will be adding back the springs if i can find them if not will order a set and go back to configuring it manualy.

So back to my box labled printer parts to see what i can find as i have a feeling i saved my springs. YES I did saveI them so will fit them going to to look for some nylock adjustment wheels on thingivers so i can lock them in possition

me being me put the springs back in and spent a hour getting bed as flat as i could before i set saving the mesh and dong the z offset.

Time to print a camera mount:

I am using a c270 Logitec camera as I do on all my printers as nice and cheap. doh printed the wrong parts need to find another fixing bracket as printed vertical mount instead of horizontal one never mind. Just a few more hours and then will cannibalise a second-hand c270 that I have ordered so inserted about £24 on amazon and got it for £13.

I have used this one before and it worked well so I pre-printed this design that can be found here. All you will need is some m4 nuts bolts and 4 t-nuts is fixed to the framework like so.

ok, it’s probably going to vibrate like a bitch but I’m game for a laugh lol.

Right now up to date with all mods, there are more to come but going to make sure I have a functioning printer before I go splash out on any more parts.

Calibrate and do some calibration prints without issue,

Now that all is working let’s start to play with calibrating the machine and getting it all working right. so first up is a bed levelling program not sure if I need to run this at the start of the print each time. can make it fewer touchpoints and then to calibrate z offset height.

Still needs a bit of a tweak I think will do a few more adjustments to the springs to get it just a slight bit more level as seems beds off a slight bit. I now remember the pain of manual bed levelling but hope it will be worth it.

made some firmware tweaks let see if this fixes the machine. getting there nearly dialled in just got to drop the head a few 0.01s and we should be good for a benchy test.

All sliced up ready to print think that will be tomorrow

Success i have a printed bentchy will be looking at it properly when i get home later.

so got home had had 1 layer shift so have tightened up the belt and run the print again. now yay had a filament jam and a tangle that made the print fail halfway through so I have decided to 1 make a better spool holder for the printer and 2 go back to sold standoffs or silicon ones so some play but can be locked in a level position.

so whilst I wait for parts again printing spool holder.

It all looks like a good time to print something bigger before I try doing 1 day 12hr prints on it.

eureka is all working well now to do some calibration prints to make sure all is well in 3d printing land.

so after 5 calibration cubes and a benchy or 2 or 3, I think I am nearly bang on as level as I will get it with a bl touch across the bed.

Conclusion to part 3

Now that I have a working machine I am going to turn it into a pro by losing the control box.

don’t worry this will be part 4 as having a working printer that’s improved the prints and has improved the quite ness of the machine, not the control box but that will be part 4.

but back to the big print

well, about 2 hrs in and it’s printed 2 layers a little bit of stringing but let’s see going to risk leaving it alone for 2 hr or more. ok came back 6hrs later and yes it’s still working I am amazed my self oh well 1 day 3 hrs left on the print.

Morning all well been printing for 23 hrs now and still going a strong slight bit of warping not bad and won’t affect the massive print this is side 1 of 2. Apparently, 23 hrs to go but it’s 61% complete so I think it will be less.

Happy the machine is working right so will show the finished side a put a pin in part 3 get ready for part 4 more modifications coming up going to order Y linear rail upgrade so we can start speed testing.

35hrs 10 mins and she is done this is pcb side low voltage.

right, this is the end of part 3 as 35 hr print is complete and looks great. did thteh enw feet over night and now doing the rigth hand side so another 35hr print.

then wehen i get back from wales i will print the lids, and start adding the electronics.

but thats going to be part 4 over all its working well so let see how we go now 1% in to next large print.

Part 4 will be all the 3d printed parts and part 5 is going to be the linear rail conversion on the y-axis.

next post in the next week or so.

01/11/202101/11/2021

CR-10 Upgrades part 2

back on with the updates to the CR10 v1

so where we left off printer moved home and levelled then failed so in this exciting chapter going to strip out the control box and add a new brain to the system.

so as I am upgrading the brain I might as well do some more mods so a colour touch screen is included in the kit. so will be adding that as well. I have been watching a few videos on compiling merlin. so have downloaded the nightly bug fix and will talk through compiling later on.

so time to jump back in there. as I have one working printer at the moment I am going to start off with printing the new screen holder as going to lose the control box completely. these things take up space.

so over to Thingiverse and found this Slim and Elegant BTT TFT35 E3 V3 dual-mode touch screen Extrusion Mount see the link here.

Over to Prusa slicer sliced and uploaded to ultraviolet. as neon orange is offline.

away we go will check back in 9hrs time

9 hrs later one screen adapter is done

some M3 screws later and it’s ready to wire lol ok I forgot to take the screen protector off never mind let’s get it all working first.

one part is ready to install some m4 bolts and t-nuts and will fit onto the frame.

I will print the pro enclosure once I have the printer working online as the cr-10 is the only printer big enough to print it. will print all small parts whilst I get the cr-10 working.

have tried the y motor mount and dont fit right so abandoning this upgrade for the time being. now to do some compiling

Compiling merlin for the first time.

This is sort of new for me as in have flashed my old original cr-10 board before using Arduino ISP programmer and source code. but now it’s all moved over to the Microsoft VScode environment so much easier to do. as the cr-10 has a pre-built config file it’s for the new SKR E3 mini v2.0 BigTreeTech mainboard that’s repacing the stock board.

so you are going to first up need to install VSCode / PlatformIO programming environment. there are plenty of guides on this. once done you will need to head over to https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ and grab the latest bugfix file you will then find a link in the config folder for the example zip this houses the configuration.h and configration.adv.h files and boot screen files you will need to drag these into the marlin main folder.

open the project in vs code.

in my case I am installing bl touch so needed to change settings to include bltouch and safe z home, also added about probe offset and a handful of other bit. There are vidoes on this so i wont try explaning it all.

I then selected my board type in the core settings. and built it. after the compile was done I found location firmware.bin and copied it to sd card to flash the mainboard. you will need to power on the machine and it should all be ready with the new firmware. will test this along with the new screen shortly same applies for that can be custom-built or you can just use stock firmware.

Now whilst doing my research for this project. I saw the filament run-out sensor porton the new screen so going to use my filament sensor from my old ezout board as it’s compatible.

I am also going to use neopixle function as well so have ordered 1m of led tape. will be experimenting with this soon as I will need to recompile the firmware to use the function actualy will turn it on now and play later time to do some more reserch as wont complie needs some addtional settings will do them first before first switch on as then when i assemble the board i will be able to playwith it will runn cable ready for it so all in place for when the tape arrives

I am also going to name the machine so i know its talke the frimware before i start testing.

now to upgrade the components.

So out with the old in with the new:

so toime to take the old board out

wiring all swapped over wiring to the new board so that it’s ready for its new firmware. whilst I’m doing this have also fitted the final part of the last lot of upgrades to the machine. new motor bracket fitted.

Time to switch it all on

Time for the initial turn on with new screen fitted in enclosure hole as till I have finished off the new mounting box for the machine won’t mount it till then.

turns on lights up and turns off ok a little bit of googling figured out the issue because i have bltouch wiring plugged incorrectly.

now I can see I have messed up the screen with an improper firmware update. long and short of it don’t copy the update to the sd folder to the TFT screen.

Dont copy over the file saying copy to sd.

only copy theme folder content TFT model number and config.ini and just like that is fixed now to flash the firmware I have compiled with fully bltouch customise on. all done did have a message that bed mesh couldn’t be found but after running bed levelling got a saved to eprom message and that’s resolved that.

wow, it’s so quiet moving around the printer all I can hear is the noisy control box on my list of things to modify.

Ready to print have done my z offset wish me luck.

nozzles hit temp beds not heating up time to check connections. brb. ok after checking all connectors and solder joints i have done over the years was poles on the SSR some how got switched now heating like a champ.

My first print failed as need to watch a video how to do z offset done right as was about 4mm off the plate but on a realy grate side it works it runs were its ment to. so very happy. watched a video all of the menus have changed but i think i have got it just going to start a test print before i move the machine back to the man cave.

bed seamms very off not sure if its down to my bracket modification.going to look for the bracket set only as then will save money on getting this sorted time for a evening of reserch fingers crossed i can solve this i am going to put this down to my mod of the braket

So have found braket correct x axis braket and orderd it and a new braket 10 to 15 days i will hopfuly be finishing this project. as i am waiting for parts i will do some other mods then leve part 2 here and come back with part 3 when the parts arrive.

Time to print some Upgrades whilst i am waiting on parts

As my wirings got heavier going to print a drag chain to sort that out so overnight parts on the Prusa will report back in the monring.

all done ready to fit. had a near miss with 2 clips shakeing loose. but it servived the nite.

lets see if it works.

It sort of works but is a little weak for my likeing i am going design my own chain holders for the liniear ralil mount and were the old exstruder motor used to be to use with some stock chain. got to free spome space up from my drive as fusion isnt working,

Hot end part cooler

been looking over thingivers for other mods i can install on my machine as you know me with this ever elvolving project. so as i have direct drive installed i am limeted with hot end cooling mods as i know the stock one is less than great so i have found one that i think will fit so time for another 7hr print. going with the AJS hero v2s as it has bl touch mount and uses factory stock screws so should fit.

morning time and all cleaneed up very well will be stripping offending bracket later in the week from the machine and install new one wilst i wait for x-axis braket that is alreay shipped from china.

test fit with new braket and have removed 5mm off the top corner with a dremal saw bit. Now a nice snug fit with out interfering with the bracket or hotend.

just got a ghost trap to build for the boy before i get on to stripping down the hote end and removing it ready for the new liniear rails bracket that is shipped already so 10 to 15 days time the project will resume.

Picoboot modification

What you will need to teardown you GC

SD2SP2 & SD2SP2 PRO 2022 AND SD MEMORY CARDS

Formatting SD Card (Important)

Card structure

Using homebrew software

Backing up your games

Pot tuning for burnt media

Adding HDMI Support

Gameboy Card Cartridge reader addon

Broadband adapter

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The Story so far

Time to clean my machine

The Setup

Upgrading dust extraction system

Clamps

Setting up Chinese CNC with fusion 360

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So what this part covers:

All in one Cr-10 Remixed for Dual Y-Axis linear rails kit

Time to build it.

Yay parts from china

UPS big tree tech

Filament runout sensor big tree tech

Time to modifiy my racking

TFT Screen firmware configuration

Dragon Hotend and issue correction

BISQU Flexplate

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High voltage side.

Low voltatge side.

How my plans have changed

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Fixing the reversed Y-axis:

Installing the updated motor mount and bed upgrade:

Time to invstigate whilst i wait for new bracket:

Fit proper X-axis linear rail bracket.

Reinstall hotend with direct drive & Install new hotend part cooler mod.

Time to print a camera mount:

Calibrate and do some calibration prints without issue,

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Compiling merlin for the first time.

So out with the old in with the new:

Time to switch it all on

Time to print some Upgrades whilst i am waiting on parts

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