Assembly and testing of the curing station Part 2`

RIght finally have finished cutting my curing station time to get it all assembled.

After Friday nighs miss calculation of size i didn’t want fully print base and holder so last night i printed bottom and top and one lamp holder ring of the 4 needed.

and so it beginens
it all fits nice and snug.

I then cut the rest of the spacer rings for the lamp. After doing so i put 4 x m3 hex bolts through the top of the lamp. I then glued each layer and added m3 nuts to hold all together.

first layer glued.
all glued up.
second later installed.
all 5 layer bolted together now to wipe off access glue.

after i had assembled it and glued the light fitting i did a test fit of the lamp to the holder.

nice tight fit.
perfect fit.

I then cut the rest of the box for a final fit.

sheet 3 of 4 nearly done.
test fit of the turntable.
I then placed the lamp on the top of the box to see how it looked.
both sides of the box assembled missing 2 sides inner and outer wall
looks good for curing my prints.

now to add some tinfoil and assemble the curing station.

I don’t like the finish going to order some aluminium tape.
don’t like it.

I don’t like the finish going to order some aluminium tape. malke a smooth finish to it. I might add a camera to it as well to show it in action. will make the plans available shortly once i have finished it fully so hold on for part 3 next few days.

Update redesigned the box to be hinged. picking up aluminium tape tomorrow as want to get make it easier to use

TCT Show 2019 NEC

As luck would have it i am working next door at the sensor and instrumentation show. stand 39 if you want to say hi.

the new SL1 Prusa printer looks good a little out of my price range.

As 3d printing is one of my many passions i thought i would go take a look around the show and who did i bump in to. the man himself Joshep Prusa had to shake his hand for developing such nice machines.

The Man Him self

I also managed to have a chat with him about my machine issues. so might be able to fix that on my return to London. I have already ordered the parts so hoping to fix this at the weekend. whilst i was there i also managed to grab a textured build plate for the mk3 printer.

looked a Crealitys latest printer with a swappable head for cnc, laser and 3d printing. and the rest of the range.

Ultimaker had its new range of printers and wall of filament on the show but the price bracket is out of my league till someone sponsors me.

new ultimaker with filament library .

form labs stand hade the new model SLA printer again big bucks to buy so not on my shopping list.

form labs sla machine nice bit of kit

Chatted with some nice chaps @kora3D who have some great safety enclosures for 3d printers with fire detection and fire suppression also filtered to keep the nasties out of the atmosphere. they gave me a free sample of there bed glue called formula 3D. wil let you know what its like once i get my printers up and running.

cool environmental enclosure

i then wandered over to makerbot and saw there newly launched method x printer with support for there preloaded filament reels and also 3rd party support filament, with removable bed and build size of 190×190

Method X MakerBot printer.

also spotted the duet 3d six spool multi-material printer on a quick wander through the hall.

as i was leaving hall 3 to grab a coffee i spatted the xyz printing colour printer looks interesting will try swinging back later to find out some more information

colour printing.

I had some time this afternoon to pop back over to the show and talk to some managed to get some free esun filaments to test, some cool carbon fibre filament from Filamentum. will take for a test drive when i have a hardened nozzle,

laser-based resin printer full Pantone full colors

Laser lines full-colour resin printer was awsome no mess but comes at a price not for the hobbyist.

Creat3d large scale 3d printer with the massive build plate.

After a 4 hour drive back to the house i have decided to give resin printing another go.

death trooper underway will check on it later or tomorrow.

saw a video 3DPrintFarm about hollowing out a print and set up of the print. so have decided to copy it and see if it works for me. As dident manage to get much time on holiday do some research.

i also test cut the base and roof of the curing station must have been drugged as hight of light support is way off so going to remeasure. ajust accordingly lol.

Time for some Rest and relax as been a long few days. Will finish curing box on Saturday night as long as son sleeps. will start looking and my 3d printers.

Josh’s Curing station for 3d Resin printer Part 1

have decided to build my self a Curing Station for my new resin printer as winter is now approaching rapidly won’t have natural sunlight.

I went on bangood and ordered light and turntable as i had time on my sides as i was off on holiday link here. also ordered a filter and silicon funnel for returning resin back to bottle as the paper filters are good but a pain to use. Now what you’re going to need to do this project.

Parts list:

  • Turntable solar powered.
  • UV resin Curing Lamp 405NM. 240v
  • 4mm plyboard.
  • some screws and glue to hold it all together.
  • UK Plug.
  • Tinfoil.
  • Spray adhesive.
  • Timer plug.(optional)

The box design:

As this is a square box 150 mm that a lid fits on top of decided to make this nice and easy so jumped on the web and went over to my favourite laser box making software and its free. selected twopiece box made 150 x 150 x 150 and 4mm thickness hit generate. see my setting below i then saved the SVG

Setting as above.

I then imported the design into lightburn software.

the raw design.

I then ungrouped the file and started with the lid and the base as i wanted to make an inlay for the turntable to sit on and a cut out for the light housing to sit in.

Ready to modify

now to modify these parts as going to engrave 4 footpads into the base this will help the turntable sit right and not move around. and going to cut a hole in the lid and add an insert fro the lamp to sit in to hold it in place.

area i will engrave so feet fit the base.

I started off my measuring the turntable 100mm x 100mm i then measured the pads 10 mm. i then measured how far from the edge of the base they were 5mm. i then drew a template for the turntable i generated the 10mm engrave circle and offset lines to show edges for the engrave feet circles. then using the array tool i made 4 circles for engraving.

template for the turntable.

I then removed construction lines in black from the template and grouped the part to be inserted in the middle of the base using the centring tool.

centred and ready to cut/engrave
405NM UV lamp

Now to modify the lid so the lamp will shine through the top of the cube. measured outside dimensions 97mm x 115mm with 10mm rim on the light surround.

blue is engraving to give it a lip to sit in. green is for reference line red is cutout.

i then made some holder rings to hold the lamp in place. did 3 of these that i will bolt down with m3 bolts. once i have cut it.

light will stit inside this. and be double-sided taped to the lid.

Cutting out the design:

have spaced this into 4 sheets 300 x 500 4mm ply. with some offcuts for further projects.

Sheet 1
Sheet 2 with a large offcut.
Sheet 3 with a large offcut
Sheet 3 with a large offcut and small offcut.

Right as jet lag got the better of me and i was off to Birmingham in the morning will end it here and follow up in part two cutting and assembly of the project.

Project updates before i jet off for a week

lighting i instaled.

LightBurn Camera Update LED bed:

As i never finished this modification off. and Karl reached out to me asking me if it was worth doing. i had a job to do tonight doing some fun stuff for my son for the aeroplane flight. So thought i would kill 2 birds with 1 stone. do some testing

So it calibrated very well with the new strip lighting now i had the head crash into the camera mount think that might be the cuse of my issues. I am currently working on a new mount made out of resin.

As you can see from the little test i put together. did a quick trace using a hand drawing, yes i know next fine artist.

wont win a prize for artisticness.

i then i tested to see if it cuts where the drawing was.

As you can see my alignment is well off and the image is enlarged.

The result is crap, So i think i will look at some videos on calibration as i want to be able to put this to bed. so the first job i will do on my return will look into this and get it all working.

Prusa printers

i will be looking at repairing these machines on my return as i want to get the project that i started before it broke.

This will then lead on to my adventures in CNC and using soft limits until i get time to wire up the end stops. thankfully after i get back i have 1 more trade show to do for this month so can do some more stuff.

More fun with sublimation

going to be getting my head around T-shirts and mugs and some other fun promo bits for the man cave. might even set up a shop selling some bits who knows.

SLA Resin 3d printing

more of this coming up as i learn more about it. going to read up as sure my recent fails have been down to me not doing things right. not the machine its self.

The first project on the SLA printer

Yes, at last, i get to take the Elegoo Mars printer out for a test drive.

So i have already tried this mount on my standard Prusa FDM printer on quick and dirty settings and it printed but had some issues with the camera holder, it fitted but need a lot of sanding to get it to work right. so as i now have a super fine detail printer. why not make it out of resin.

In the end, went for the yet another camera mount which i cut from acrylic and blogged about on here its good but the head hits at the bottom of the bed if door is shut on the cutting bed so have been thinking about ether modifying mount or designing another one.

I was chatting with a fellow laser cutting community group user who was asking for my advice and was going to buy this mount off an Etsy shop. This got me thinking what if i printed this in resin would be nice and smooth and easy to put together.

Model is available off Thingiverse link here.

Fired up Chitbox and dropped in the components for the mount had to rotate some bits and then ready to slice with standard 0.05mm layer hight profile standards

this is my first attempt ad printing in sla other than the test samples in the previous review

Now not sure how well it will run as haven’t added rafts or supports but why not just go for it going to cost me the minimal amount in resin. hoping this comes out well.

wish me luck will be back in the cave in a 2hrs to see how it does.

The machine is all ready to go all i have to do is select mode off the U-disk and 2hrs later should have bits ready to clean and cure.

Total fail 1:

Print stuck to the build plate but had layer shift and the part was flatter than it should have been.

wish me luck lol

Fail Number 2:

Printed raft and supports then failed again this time leaving a residue on the print surface this required a big clean up to remove have also marked the print surface.

What Next:

As i am about to get on a jet plane for a week away will do some reading on supports and print methods to see what i can do. as i am sure it’s more my error than the printer.

will update this post on my return as will be a little bit less stressed than when i was doing this first run project as had a large amount of bit to make for my day job so it’s on a shelf till i get back then will make a proper space for it to live.

Review: Ricoh SG-3110DN Sublimation Printer

As with most printers this started off life as a standard printer well in my case this is a second-hand printer that allows me to do a lot of promo bits for the cave and for my day jobs the joys of being someone mad enough to run 3 jobs the family business/Crafting business/Man Cave, blogger. The wife might argue that the blogging bit is no a real job but i beg to differ.

I got a great deal on a second had printer load of mugs and some sublimation printing paper.

drove 30 mins out of town to grab this kit and well worth the money i paid a lot less than the printer alone would cost.

So why the Ricoh printer well in my case space is premium and this is a nice compact unit the fact its ink-based refillable cartridge system is a doddle to install and use.

its great machine to learn on as there is a lot of information on this printer on youtube so lots of setting up guides.

as new to this being a bit of a learning curve but getting there finding heat and time is the hard part of sublimation printing.

but once you have got your head around that it’s easy. i am getting there slowly but think i have now found the sweet spot on the printer side just to get the heat pressing parts


  • Small and compact A4 printer.
  • Easy refillable cart system.
  • lots of guides on how to use this printer
  • aftermarket inks cheap


  • sealed ink cleaning bin single-use only have to replace so far looks like will last a long time.
  • issues with windows 10 and drivers have had to run off the LAN
  • inks are expensive if brought off sawgrass

I would recommend this machine for someone who wants to set up something out of the box without having to reset chips and other complications

Review: Elegoo Mars UV SLA 3D Printer

New toy for the man cave.

I have been after one of these bad boys for an over a month but they are hard to find in stock as in short supply in the UK as so popular as the 3d gods have been reviewing them. elegoo support on amazon tipped me off of stock returning and i managed to snag the last one on amazon. time to review it.

What’s In the box?

nice compact box with lots of foam to keep it all safe.

Very impressive packaging from such a cheap machine after removing the foam you are greeted a with a box labelled tools and the printer.

still more foam but can never be too protective.
tools and power supply

after removing another layer of foam you will find the print plate lose encased in foam. i finished unpacking the tools and printer. You are greeted with a nice easy to use manual. so what’s in the box?

  • Hex driver not sure what this i used for probably changing the vat screen
  • Printing plate.
  • Snips for cutting supports off.
  • 2 x Hex Keys 1 for locking the print head in place the other must be for maintenance.
  • Measuring jug for filtering the leftover resin into before pouring back into a bottle,
  • 5 Face masks not sure the need for these as resin does not pong.
  • Paint filters for straining used resin through so you can return it to the bottle.
  • Some spare nuts and screws just in case you lose any.
  • Nitrile gloves couple of pairs will need more
  • 3d printed 45-degree drip tool.
  • Plastic scraper for removing prints.
  • Powerpack with local plug in my case UK.
  • Instructions
  • USB Key with rook test print instructions and slicing software
All thats in the box

What’s not included.

Now you will need to buy resin separately i have gone for the Elegoo standard resin 500g transparent green for £20 off amazon. going to order some other colours soon.

You are also going to need some bits to clean and cure the print afterwards. After watching some videos i brought a pickle jar airtight this comes with a drip tray some 91+ % isopropanol alcohol to clean the print, some UV light to cure the print this can be sunlight.

I have ordered a UV light and turntable that i will make a curing chamber in the future will be an upcoming project.

The Setup.

This is probably the quickest setup i have ever done on a 3d printer.

  1. plug in the printer and turn it on makes a beep and its ready select settings and manual raise the z-axis by about 100mm 10 presses on up button.
  2. Get build plate loosen 2 grub screws and attach the build plate to the z-axis
  3. Press the plate levelling button the plate will home and move up and down a few time then tighten the grub screws. plate is now levelled.
  4. move build plate 100mm up the z-axis.
  5. Check the uv screen is working this step i skipped as it was late.
  6. fill resin vat to 1/3 full insert the USB key and press the printer button to navigate to rook print and press play.
  7. Cover the machine, with UV cover i sat and waited till i heard the pop sound this was first layer being taken up by the build plate.
  8. Come back 4hr 30mins later and print will be done i came back next morning.
test print started 11:30
checked on it about midnight ish

The Morning after

Curing the print.

now this is the dangerous bit and requires cloves do not handle resin without gloving up as this stuff is toxic. i also put safety glasses on as just don’t want to risk it.

letting access resin drip of the build plate.

using the supplied 3d printed bracket I placed the build plate on it to allow any access resin to drip off the plate.

after 10 mins i came back using the scrapper i gently took the prints off the build ad plate put them into my pickle container filled halfway with isopropanol alcohol shook the sealed jar to remove any access resin.

In the uncured prints go. 10 mins in 99.9% alcohol

i then put the prints outside for 30mins to cure.

marks from getting it off the build plate

The result.

so crisp 0.05 layer hight
look at the detail just wow

Wow I am impressed with this printer yes it’s a bit messier than an FDM but the quality of the print is amazing going to start my first project to see how it handles a model off Thingiverse.


I would recommend this printer for small quality prints it’s quite easy to use so far will review the slicing software shortly. as its resin would watch a load of videos first as safety is key.


  • High-quality prints.
  • Easy to set up and use.
  • Not too smelly.
  • Compact unit.
  • Offline printing.
  • Well packed.
  • Price.


  • Risk of harm from resin.
  • The power switch is on the back
  • the USB slot is on the back
  • Getting material off the build plate is a little hard

All in all happy with my purchase can see it being a good fit in the cave. would recommend it to everyone just finding them has proven to be a challenge as in sort supply at the sale price as people are buying them and marketing up to £400+ on ebay.

A for future mods to the machine, I have a USB extension lead will try seeing if it will take it as will then mount the USB at the front and have a led extension with an on/off switch will see if i can then add the on/off to the front of the machine. so minimal mod to make it great will cove this later. will post the first project later once it done.

Review: Freesub ST-3042 3D heat press

After a lot deliberation about what heat press i should get, i decided that the 3D press was right for me as can do more than a press a T-shirt and do costers.

Which is ironic as my first job is to do some costers for a trade show for my other business.

On my return from wales disassembled my cr-10 and cleared space for my new toy

ready for new toy

Got to work on Tuesday after a week away to be greeted with big-box do love new toys.

now to unbox it so what’s in the box.

  • 1 x set heat gloves
  • 2 x 11oz mug wraps
  • 1 x 15oz mug wrap
  • Spare vacuum sheet
  • Spare Tubing.
  • Power Cable
  • Manual.
the beast of a machine.

All and unpacked and removed all plastics and packaging fired it straight up and through i would test out a coster fired up the tried to test vacuum it but just buzzed nothing happened.

I then realised i had to connect vacuum tube to nozzle now vacuums. fist test run didn’t sublimate to well as was not making a proper seal.

I have since watched a video and no know i have to make cuts around the outer edges of the paper to get it to make a good vacuum seal so that was my next issue solved.

In the video i watched it showed 4 costers being done at once 180c for 4 mins. so i tried that It did sublimate but colours are washed and not right.

Ment to be a navy not purple not bad second attempt.

I think this might have been as i was running 1 only might need less time so tonight i will be running the test again 80 seconds on the clock and different print settings.

Arg no joy now think its pressure issue with the machine will do some more testing on this tonight as i have read over the manual and want to check vacuum pump as was mention about removing water. as i printed 2 costers to a sheet second one i applied to a mug with 180c temp and 180 seconds now its worked colours are right but fuzzy so going to reduce the time as read this is caused by too much time to see if i can get my sublimation temperatures/times right.

Not good overcooked but great Colour sublimation and loads of dimples on the back of the coaster

Finally cracked It had some shit coasters that don’t sublimate well as just tried with some name badges 185c 4 mins can do 6 at a time no issue Colours came out well

I know it was late it’s not straight

I also tested a metal bottle opener worked well I know it’s not straight was 2 am in the morning

This is a great machine now that I have figured out my issue being cheap coasters. As with my sublimation journey, it’s been a bit of a learning curve.


This a nice solid build Machine with a wide range of uses for sublimation. It’s very user-friendly and easy to set up. Heats up to 180 c in around 5 mins or less. I am happy with my purchase


  • Silicon moulds for range items ie phone cases mouse cover travel bottles, mugs.
  • Compact uni
  • Vacuumed seal
  • Easy setup and use


  • Not cheap
  • Some noise when running

This is for a creator and can see it being a useful part of my side business. now i know its just the issue with cheap coasters. I have now found a reliable source of sublimation blanks should be plane sailing.

Reviews incoming after a week off in wales

Been a busy week in wales holidaying and having some well-deserved rest and doing some tidying up. god i have a lot of useful stuff that i need to sell.

been a tech-free week for me but have been busy in the background buying some new bits of kit. I have also touched on some of other new bit but its time i did some in-depth reviews in my not so live posts.

I will start with the ELEGOO Mars UV Resin printer has been featured by a few of the 3d printing gods but time for me to have a play. should be landing at the cave on Tuesday have ordered some transparent green resin to give it a test drive.

I will also be reviewing the FreeSub Heat Press 3D Vacuum ST-3042  sublimation machine. As for my day job i have a trade show coming up the week after next so will be designing some costers, mugs and bottle openers. this is already at the office waiting for my return to London.

I will cover my Ricoh SG-3110DN printer and its refillable cartridges that i got from Ink Experts. setting up an ICC profile in adobe products.

I will also cover my Freesub automatic mug press.

Removal from my cave:

My CR-10 is going to be removed from the cave as ist become unreliable will move it to wales so and revisit it at a later date.

Repair list:

my Prusa printers will work on these probably after i return from 2 trades shows and a week away some were hot and sunny will be moving things around the cave to fit the new equipment.

Time to play with:

Hoping to get to play with my CNC machine as got some ideas for Christmas presents and a bit i want to make.

right time to sleep as i have a 3+ hrs drive tommorow back to london.

%d bloggers like this: