CR-10 Silicon heat bed upgrade.

Warning Do Not Attempt this if you do not have any wiring knowledge this is done at your own risk as this I a non-approved manufacture item. I will not be held responsible for any damage done to you or your machine this is just covering my arse. But you will be fine as was a doddle to install and now hit 60C in less than 30 seconds. The links are for cr-10 and cr-10s with 310mm x 310mm bed. I have no affiliation with links.

This guide is based off a Nexi tech video i saw on youtube about upgrading the heat bed. my heat bed now heats up in 30 seconds flat the hot end takes a few mins to heat but much better than the 10 mins the heat bad used to take to heat. link to Nexi Tech video

I did have a few issues that are covered in my guide and I would not recommend the Magnetic bed I will be swapping this for creality official replacement bed instead. should have it monday. will update the review tommorow.

Parts required.

• Solid state Relay Link £6.79
• 730W Silicon Heater CR-10 Link £22.74
• Cork Bed Insulator Cr-10 Link £9.99
• Creality Magnetic work surface Cr-10 Link £13.01
• Some wire for low voltage link to the control board.
• 2.1 x 5.5 connectors male and female for EZABL probe(not needed unless your hard wiring probe)
• Pin crimps for the controller board.(Optional)

Tools required.

• Soldering iron
• Screwdrivers
• Alan Keyset
• Cleaner suggest isopropyl alcohol
• Wire cutters
• Small black heat shrink.
• Crimper for Pin Connector (optional)

Right first things first I am going to send the z axis up high to make sure I have everything clear for removing the heat bed.

I have taken the glass bed off I will be removing the current LokBuild surface off the class and installing the new creative magnetic bed to replace it. out with the lemonime to remove all sticky stuff. Now the cave smells of oranges remanence from the Lemonime.

I then removed the 4 screws from my machine. Now you will notice that I do not have springs on my machine but solid aluminium blocks as I am using the TH3d EZABL probe I don’t need the adjustments. Also stop it moving after long prints.

I have then removed the heat bed connector from the back of the control box.

Now to disassemble the heat bed on with my soldering iron to remove the Red and black wiring. Then removed the thermostat from behind the heat proof tape. Out with the isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed before I attach the new silicon heated bed.

 Then added the self-adessive cork insulation plate on top of the silicon heater.

Now for the wiring. I have disassembled the aviation 4 pin connector and de soldered the wires from the plug. Making note of what pin does what

Pin 1 = Thermostat

Pin 2 = Thermostat

Pin 3 = Heated Bed

Pin 4 = Heated Bed

Then I soldered new heat bed wiring to old and pulled the new wiring through the wire management sleeve. I then taped the thermostat wires with old and new and did the same so now the new wiring ins in the sleeve.

I then cut the wires to length and solder them to correct pins before I do this I have also added heat shrink to each wire to protect from shorts.

I then re install the bed to the printer adding back my abs printed bed holders and wire management  couple of cable ties later and we are ready for the rewiring of the control box. Oh wait one more job.

Time for magnetic bed I have already cleaned the glass off after last build surface was removed.

I removed the sticky backing of the magnetic bed under sheet and applied it to the glass centrally re attached the glass to the printer and placed new build surface to printer.

All done now I can move on to the control box.

I am going to disconnect the wiring from the printer so I can bring the control box to the work bench.

Now to take it to bits also going to clean up wiring for the EZABL as power was done in a rush. So going to install a 2.1mm x 5.5 power jack in the back of the machine from the EZABL probe you wont need to do this but as I have it in bits going to do it.

Getting started there are 5 screws or hex bits on the bottom of the control box these need to be removed the bottom cover will now come off.

Next remove 4 screws/hex bits from side of machine this will release the power supply.

Once they are out you can swing the power supply out.

Next will need to disconnect the existing heated bed from the mosfit and power supply. Follow the black and red wires from the aviation plug to mosfit and to power supply disconnect them.

Then its time to install the Solid-State Relay on the back of the power supply there are 2 screw holes this is what I have used to affix the relay.

Taking the red wire from the aviation plug I wire this in to position 1 on the solid-state relay (SSD) position 2 I use a off cut of heated bed wiring to mains power AC positive connector side of the power supply. Then using the black wire from the aviation connector to the ground side of the AC wiring. This gives you a mains supply closed loop.

Now to install the wiring that will switch on and off the heat bed relay. Install 2 wires in to connection 3 and 4 on the SSD these 2 wires will now be connected to the control board. See image

Remove the 2 wires from the control board and install the 2 control wires in pin 3 and 4 of the control board  bank of 6 screw connectors see image.

You can now de install the mosfit and any wiring connected to it. the 2 wires you removed from the control board can also be removed.

All done but as I am going to install a quick connect for my EZABL Probe power.

Taking a centre punch and marking a location with no wires around it I then drill a pilot hole before drilling the 6mm hole for the connector after installing the connector I bring the solder iron out to solder power to the connector. From the existing installed wires, the centre pin is the positive and the outer wall is the negative.

The other end I will solder connector to connect in to it. now all done time to re assemble calibrate and test.

 Nice and neat time to see how she works.  A nice quick modification to do. Total cost around £53 and a few weeks of delivery time.

Now, this took a little longer than I thought it would about 2 hrs in total but that was as I was doing other things around the cave. I managed to calibrate the machine yesterday but I will be removing the magnetic bed as its shockingly bad going to order a new glass bed with a coating on it. £28 off Amazon will review that instead, UPDATE: ok it’s not as bad as I thought originally it’s just silly the way it mounts will be running tests but still going with a fixed bed in the meantime will revisit the magnetic bed but got to get some air bubbles out of it. and figure out how to remove the embeded plastic from it.

I am about to run some calibration tests to make sure all is right. Then i have some modparts to run as going to start some long projects on my cr-10 I am going to start on the big print stuff this week hopefully. i have the gramazon print that I have been meaning to run for some time, but never got around to it as printer broke didn’t want to have to print the small parts version.

Next, I have to fix my Original Prusa i3 Mk3 as got a blocked extruder. I will also be printing a Raspberry Pi 3 Mountable enclosure for the CR-10 and rebuilding my pi install. I will also be building a new pie set up for the Prusa Mk3 as looking to be able to monitor all remotely and get some nice time laps for some of my blogging.